head bolts

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FargoFour
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head bolts

#1

Post by FargoFour »

Hi,

When any of you have removed the heads do you reuse the head bolts or buy new?

thanks,

Bud.
70 CL450
84 GL1200 A
98 GL1500 SE
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ianstaley
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Re: head bolts

#2

Post by ianstaley »

You should NEVER reuse old hear bolts, they are stretched when torqued down to the manufacturers specs. I learnt my lesson years ago on a Triumph I had, to tight to buy new ones as the old ones looked fine, re torqued the bolts, great 120 miles down the road one snapped on the Motorway (highway to the US friends). I spent a lot on that motor only to re spend it and a bit more on New Head bolts. Well they were studs, long ones in the triumph Cylinder goes over the the long studs then the head on top with nuts. Now if I have to have the head off new nuts and bolts always. and if you can get them ARP are the dogs nadgers or cahonas.
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Steve81GL1100
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Re: head bolts

#3

Post by Steve81GL1100 »

Only one problem..... Honda has discontinued the longer, M10x115mm bolt. The short M10x90 are still available at a list price of about 10 bucks apiece. I haven't looked to see if anyone like ARP offers replacements.
That said, I re-used all the bolts on my heads when I went through the 1100 last year prior to putting it back on the road after a 15-year slumber. No issues with torque or anything else, and still no issues after 1200 miles. Others probably have many times that mileage on theirs...
I've also done a lot of work on Honda cars, and in no case did Honda recommend replacement of head bolts in their OEM shop manuals. Hundreds of thousands of problem-free miles, and automotive heads are torqued tighter than our bikes.
Steve
Last edited by Steve81GL1100 on Fri Apr 24, 2015 7:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Steve
1981 GL 1100 Standard, 81 Interstate bags, 84 GL1200 pegs, sometime National Cycle PlexiStar windshield
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rich3389
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Re: head bolts

#4

Post by rich3389 »

Generally, you should not re-use head bolts because most of them are torque to yield. But on the old wings, they are not torque to yield, and the manual does not say they need to be replaced.
When I did my heads, I just cleaned up the threads real good with a wire wheel, and re-used them.
1978 GL1000
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ianstaley
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Re: head bolts

#5

Post by ianstaley »

OKay I can live with that. as I said it is what I would do, it isn't de facto.
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Bugdaddy66
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Re: head bolts

#6

Post by Bugdaddy66 »

Generally speaking, standard reusable head bolts were the norm for years and manufactures have been changing over to torque to yield design. The main reason is the newer style negates the need for re torquing as the clamping force is in the stretch of the bolt, saving money at assembly. It is also less effected by things like thread condition, lubrication and drag of bolt on head. If the original design was not stretch type bolts, the expectation was they would be reused. Never reuse torque to yield design, you cannot achieve proper clamping force again. I did a diesel this week, spec was 36 lbs, then 90 degrees 3 times. I have to use a 6 foot bar for that last 90!
Todd Logan (Bugdaddy66)
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1978 GL1000 Daily commuter (SOLD)
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Toehead
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Re: head bolts

#7

Post by Toehead »

Remember, torque spec for the wings is assuming the threads and heads are lubricated with a good moly grease!
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rich3389
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Re: head bolts

#8

Post by rich3389 »

Toehead wrote:Remember, torque spec for the wings is assuming the threads and heads are lubricated with a good moly grease!
Does the manual actually say to use moly grease? I don't remember reading it anyway, it just says torque them down "wet". Was using Moly for headstuds in the 70's a normal thing? I just assumed by "wet" it meant some motor oil on the threads.
1978 GL1000
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zman
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Re: head bolts

#9

Post by zman »

I would measure them and check for straightness. Something I found on me wing the torque specs for the head is 44 foot pounds in the book, so while checking the valves I checked the head torque..keep in mind the bike had 9K original on the clock and never been cracked open.
I set the meter at 45 and every bolt clicked fast as if they were torqued higher on assembly. wonder if they didn't add a little after the 44 pounds and how much was it.
1980 1100 Interstate, 1978 GL1000
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rich3389
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Re: head bolts

#10

Post by rich3389 »

zman wrote:I would measure them and check for straightness. Something I found on me wing the torque specs for the head is 44 foot pounds in the book, so while checking the valves I checked the head torque..keep in mind the bike had 9K original on the clock and never been cracked open.
I set the meter at 45 and every bolt clicked fast as if they were torqued higher on assembly. wonder if they didn't add a little after the 44 pounds and how much was it.
The reason for this is because of friction. The proper way to re-torque something is to back the bolt off a hair, and then re-torque to your value.
1978 GL1000
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robin1731
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Re: head bolts

#11

Post by robin1731 »

1976 Goldwing Super Sport
1985 Honda Elite
1976 KZ900 Dragbike
1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
and a rotation of various purchases
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Re: head bolts

#12

Post by Gowing »

I was told it's fine to reuse our head bolts.
So dats what I did. Oh well.
Dave

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robin1731
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Re: head bolts

#13

Post by robin1731 »

Gowing wrote:I was told it's fine to reuse our head bolts.
So dats what I did. Oh well.

You did fine. These are not torque to yield bolts. They can be reused many times. On my race engine's I reuse them too.
1976 Goldwing Super Sport
1985 Honda Elite
1976 KZ900 Dragbike
1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
and a rotation of various purchases
Randakk approved Carb Rebuilder
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