lower engine mounting bolt removal

[Lads]

WF, thanks for the tutorial. Have the engine out and on my welding table to work on it. When I was removing the engine a had problems with the two cross bolts on the lower front engine mount. There was some chrome engine guards on the bolts. One bolt broke and one has stripped threads. Any ideas on removal/replacement of the bolt or a work-around?

[rcmatt007]

are you refering to the ones way low on the back of the engine, or the ones that attach to the engine behind the radiator? My Ltd has both of the ones behind th radiator broken, and, as I have not pulled the engine, they simply are not used with no problem. If I were to pull the engine I would drill them out and simply use a bolt with a nut

[gregforesi]

I think he means the long bolt that goes through the front lower engine mount hole. It's supposed to be a bolt (90152-371-000 BOLT, FRT. ENGINE HANGER) but when I had my 78 apart it looked like two studs sticking out both sides of the block. I don't know if it was stuck with dirt and I didn't try to remove it. The other engine here is a 76 and it is definitely a long stud and it is loose in the block.

I'd try tapping it back and forth with the Harley tool.

Wingovations may have one laying around the warehouse, or a piece of threaded rod would probably do.

Lads...when you get a chance, go to the user control panel and edit your profile/signature to include the year and model of the bike.

[rcmatt007]

maybe that one, hadn't thought of it. Some of the original ones are long gone and people have used things like a threaded rod. Honda does not make the part anymore

[Toehead]

Almost every bike I have found has that replaced with a threaded rod, often SAE... It seems that that was the easiest way to fit a lot of styles of crash bar.

[rcmatt007]

I think a lot of the crash bars came with a replacement bolt, but it may be that some of them simply used a threaded rod. I have a set of vetter crash bars on mine and they included an actually long bolt

[Lads]

Thanks for the info guys. Going to see if I can get the bolt to turn, otherwise, will drill/tap the bolt and use a new hex head bolt.

[jdvorchak]

Hose it down with PB blaster and try tapping it.

[Hukmut]

AND a little patience and perseverance.

[sunnbobb]

Yes, it will come out, and if you want a stock one, let me know via pm. I have a bunch laying around.

[DeltaBlues]

Hi the way I've removed that long bolt on a couple of different engines is to put a spacer behind the nut and tighten it, making the spacer bigger as it starts to move, also applying a little heat to the casing with a blow torch

[rcmatt007]

Thanks for the info guys. Going to see if I can get the bolt to turn, otherwise, will drill/tap the bolt and use a new hex head bolt.

enquiring minds want to know, which bolt did it turn out to be?

[Lads]

Let me see if I can answer all of these at once:
1. Sunnbobb, I would like to take you up on the offer. I like going with the original design but I am also concerned that a full through-bolt maybe wasn't the best idea in the first place, especially considering the rest of the motor supports. Let me see how this one comes out and I will let you know.
2. Spacer is a great idea except I have maybe a 1/4" of usable thread on the other side due to the PO's motor chrome stripping the rest.
3. It is the forward mount, behind the radiator. The other ones came out much easier.

Seems a rubber sleeve would have been a good original design idea for this location.

Heading to NOLA for a bachelor party this weekend (first one in a long long time). Will hit this bolt early next week. Look for updates and pics. I will also start a build thread.

[Motowalt]

Still not sure which bolt you are talking about here...

[rcmatt007]

it sort of sounds like the ones right behind the radiator and not the lower bolt. Sounds like the PO threaded the mouning bolts incorrectly (or wrong thread size) and buggered them up and broke them.

Here?