Valve Guide Seals

[SW3DL1]

I'm in the process of bring back a Standard 1982 GL1100. In the process, I decided to replace the Valve Guide Seals. My questions is which seals to use? The Original equiptment seals are outrageously expensive, K&L seals are almost as bad, the Viton seals on E-bay (the one that claim to br 5% teflom) are very cheap. Not knowing the answer, I decided to call a few motorcycle shops in the Phoenix ( one shop specilizes in Gings) area for advise (one shop specilizes in Goldwings). To my surprise, the three shops I called stated they have never changes valve guide seals in any year Goldwing.
My Wing has low miles, but smokes when started in the mornings whether on the side stand or center stand. Has great compression on the gauge, and runs excellently. Most everyone I have talked to has said, "replace the valve guide seals".
If this is such a common problem, (and I am lead to believe it is) why is it that people that work on these bikes regularly have never replaced these seals?
Is it worth the time to do so, and if it iswhich seals should I use?
Has anyone replaced these seals and noticed a difference?

[CYBORG]

.I change them when ever I have a head off. About $30 on ebay for both sides. I also change the cam seals. About $7 ea http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11400.m1 ... AUS%3A1181

[robin1731]

I wouldn't call it "a common problem, (and I am lead to believe it is) ". It's just that 35-40 year old rubber is hard. I also always replace the valve guide seals if the head is off. Easy to do and doesn't cost that much.

One good way to see how bad and hard your old valve guide seals are; After taking the heads off remove the valve keepers. When you take the spring compressor off see what your valves do. I've actually had them fall completely out of the head because the seal is so hard it isn't really "gripping" the valve stem at all. New seals will hold the valve in place without the keepers installed.

A shop that says "they have never changes valve guide seals in any year Goldwing" either hasn't done any older Wings or aren't very good at what they do. IMO

[tlbranth]

I'll agree with Robin that the old rubber is going to be hard and probably not seal all that well. I'm probably going to replace mine (when I run out of things to do) with the heads on. But I'll repeat SW's question about what's a good seal to get and can anyone furnish results of a replacement?

[robin1731]

I'll agree with Robin that the old rubber is going to be hard and probably not seal all that well. I'm probably going to replace mine (when I run out of things to do) with the heads on. But I'll repeat SW's question about what's a good seal to get and can anyone furnish results of a replacement?

I use aftermarket seals all the time. As far as seeing a difference? No way to say definitively. This is a flat 4 engine. Even with new seals you can sometimes get smoke at start up. Especially if it's parked on the side stand.

I won't endorse wither rubber or Viton. Or even aftermarket or OE seals. This is probably one of those places where going with the lowest price isn't that big of an issue. A personal preference thing I guess is what I'm saying.

[fish]

I would guess they were mis understanding you.
Perhaps they thought you were talking about valve guides. BTW any seal no matter how cheap is going to be better than 35 year old ones.

[UltraRunner]

I like Fish's point. Rubber doesn't last forever. I just replaced my seals, and the old ones just kind of "crumbled" out of the way. I ended up using Viton- I wasn't willing to pay the OEM price, and the only supplier I could find with enough on hand had Viton. I like them, but I doubt I would know any different if I'd used something else.

[Steve81GL1100]

I used OEM when I re-did my heads -- got them from Western Honda -- right around the corner from you...
Steve

[SW3DL1]

A shop that says "they have never changes valve guide seals in any year Goldwing" either hasn't done any older Wings or aren't very good at what they do. IMO

I was shocked as well. The shop I initially called is known in the Phoenix area as "experts" on older Goldwings. I thought I was my question was pretty explicit.
I'm going to change them, they are not that difficult to do. After all, they are as pointed out, they are quite old.
I was just wondering if my information was wrong.
Thanks to all who responded.

[Motowalt]

I'm considering doing them as well on my 78...
If you're going to do them without removing the heads, would you mind posting a few pics as you go, so
we can learn how?

[tlbranth]

I'm considering doing them as well on my 78...
If you're going to do them without removing the heads, would you mind posting a few pics as you go, so
we can learn how?

Well I'd be happy to do that if I ever get around to it - many more pressing things to do. But I've never done it myself. I've found several threads here and there that describe the procedure. You hold the valves still either with compressed air or rope. The spring compressor has to be carefully chosen. I believe HF has one that will work if you buy two and put the right halves together but don't remember the details. When I looked into it, I found a wealth of information on the topic.

[robin1731]

Look around. There are some threads on it here.

[sunnbobb]

I have used the viton ones and like them, esp for the price.

[Qui-gon]

The "in-situ" fix is easy and using Napa seals its quite cheap too. Did my '77 a few weeks ago, it takes a couple of hours or so. There's no need for compressed air or rope (not heard that one before) just make sure the piston is a TDC for the valves you are working on so the inlet cannot fall inside. Use a spring compressor like the HF el cheapo one with the same length legs. Do one valve at a time so the spring stays on the compressor. The new seal will usually hold the valve in place while you replace the spring/collets. Good luck