IGNITION SWITCH
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- mhild
- Cast Iron Member
- Posts: 70
- Joined: Fri May 11, 2012 10:00 pm
- Location: Kansas
IGNITION SWITCH
I have an ignition switch from a 1976 LTD and the plastic switch part is falling apart. The switch itself is good. Will the plastic part from a regular 76 GL1000 fit on my switch? I'll attach a picture of the switch off my bike.
Thanks.....
Thanks.....
1976 GL1000 LTD
- 77Pinto
- Billet Alum. Member
- Posts: 228
- Joined: Mon Nov 04, 2013 2:04 pm
- Location: CT
Re: IGNITION SWITCH
Without pulling the one from my LTD to compare, I would say call your local dealer and see if the igintion switch assy. for the LTD has a superseded part number to a regular switch. If it does (like lots of other parts), its safe bet it will work.
Bill
Bill
1976 GL1000 LTD (X2)
1976 GL1000 Sulfur
1977 GL1000
1976 GL1000 Sulfur
1977 GL1000
- CYBORG
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Re: IGNITION SWITCH
there were two different plastic parts. one is black one is white. some are 5 pin and some are 6. let me look and see if i have a white 5 pin to help you out
1978 custom GL1000
1977 custom with 1200 engine
1985 gl1200
1977 custom with 1200 engine
1985 gl1200
- rod willis
- Silver Member
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- Location: Sonora,Ca
Re: IGNITION SWITCH
You can still get the contact ass. for the 76-77 it is a Emgo prod. the 75 is a different
part all by its self the one from Emgo is a 5 pin and should just snap onto the switch
Rod
part all by its self the one from Emgo is a 5 pin and should just snap onto the switch
Rod
rod willis
1976 GL1000
1976 GL1000
- RB
- Honored Life Member
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- Location: AZ
Re: IGNITION SWITCH
I am fairly sure all the plastic caps are the same 75-79 and even to the 83's..
Also the only reason to have the cap removable is if you were going to rebuild the switch by cleaning all the contacts and/or adding new contacts point to the switch..if you did, rebuild, then you could just JB weld the plastic cap back on and be good for another 5 to 10 years..
or buy a new replacement for about $25
I was thinking just the cap not the whole plug with prongs..sorry
Also the only reason to have the cap removable is if you were going to rebuild the switch by cleaning all the contacts and/or adding new contacts point to the switch..if you did, rebuild, then you could just JB weld the plastic cap back on and be good for another 5 to 10 years..
or buy a new replacement for about $25
I was thinking just the cap not the whole plug with prongs..sorry
Last edited by RB on Sat Nov 16, 2013 9:38 am, edited 1 time in total.
98 1500 SE..
99 1500 SE SOLD
97 SE 1500 SOLD
83 SOLD
82 REBUILT sold!!!
81 DAILY RIDER sold her ((!
81 REBUILT SOLD!!!
81 REBUILT SOLD!!
80 REBUILT SOLD
79 IN BASKET PARTS FOR SALE
79 CLEANED UP AND SOLD
78 REBUILT SOLD
77 REBUILT SOLD
76 SOLD/PARTIAL REBUILD
76 REBUILT AND SOLD
75 REBUILT SOLD
75 REBUILT SOLD
75 REBUILD SOLD
FAIR WINDS,
RB
99 1500 SE SOLD
97 SE 1500 SOLD
83 SOLD
82 REBUILT sold!!!
81 DAILY RIDER sold her ((!
81 REBUILT SOLD!!!
81 REBUILT SOLD!!
80 REBUILT SOLD
79 IN BASKET PARTS FOR SALE
79 CLEANED UP AND SOLD
78 REBUILT SOLD
77 REBUILT SOLD
76 SOLD/PARTIAL REBUILD
76 REBUILT AND SOLD
75 REBUILT SOLD
75 REBUILT SOLD
75 REBUILD SOLD
FAIR WINDS,
RB
- mhild
- Cast Iron Member
- Posts: 70
- Joined: Fri May 11, 2012 10:00 pm
- Location: Kansas
Re: IGNITION SWITCH
The plastic cap literally just disintegrated, so it can't be glued together.
RB wrote: I am fairly sure all the plastic caps are the same 75-79 and even to the 83's..
Also the only reason to have the cap removable is if you were going to rebuild the switch by cleaning all the contacts and/or adding new contacts point to the switch..if you did, rebuild, then you could just JB weld the plastic cap back on and be good for another 5 to 10 years..
or buy a new replacement for about $25
1976 GL1000 LTD
- mhild
- Cast Iron Member
- Posts: 70
- Joined: Fri May 11, 2012 10:00 pm
- Location: Kansas
Re: IGNITION SWITCH
Rod: The emgo switches look totally different than my switch, so I wasn't sure if they would work.
rod willis wrote:You can still get the contact ass. for the 76-77 it is a Emgo prod. the 75 is a different
part all by its self the one from Emgo is a 5 pin and should just snap onto the switch
Rod
1976 GL1000 LTD
- roncar
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Re: IGNITION SWITCH
This may help you to more readily identify what will fit. http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic. ... 91#p443991
- mhild
- Cast Iron Member
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- Joined: Fri May 11, 2012 10:00 pm
- Location: Kansas
Re: IGNITION SWITCH
My switch looks just like the two circled in the link you sent me. I have not seen any Emgo part that looks like mine. Do you happen to have a good one you would be willing to sell? If not, what are my options?
Thanks so much for your help.
Mike H.
Thanks so much for your help.
Mike H.
roncar wrote:This may help you to more readily identify what will fit. http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic. ... 91#p443991
1976 GL1000 LTD
- roncar
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Re: IGNITION SWITCH
I have not seen an OEM or aftermarket replacement for the electrical portion of the 75-76 ignition switches. Last I looked, the superseded part number for those switches was the 77 switch. The electrical part of the 77 switch are (were) available separately, OEM and aftermarket "ie EMGO." Your options vary, depending on your desire:
1. Find a used OEM 75-76 switch and use the electrical part on your current switch. This will maintain one key fits all locks (assuming they do now.) Be cautious, a lot of sellers on eBay don't know what they "really" have. I've also seen numerous locks for sale without the electrical part of the switch.
2. Try to repair, jerry rig, your current switch. Depending on what is wrong, this may or may not be feasible.
3. New switch assembly. Pretty sure OEM is unavailable so only choice is aftermarket (ie EMGO.) This will make you have another key for your bike, but is a better option than parking it.
I have one (electrical) switch assembly for a 75-76 that isn't in use. It however has one of the two tabs broke that hold it into the switch assembly.
I also have 2 75-77 EMGO switch assemblies. They are a challenge to make keys for, but I've had some success. Rekeying them to the rest of your bike is out of the question.
1. Find a used OEM 75-76 switch and use the electrical part on your current switch. This will maintain one key fits all locks (assuming they do now.) Be cautious, a lot of sellers on eBay don't know what they "really" have. I've also seen numerous locks for sale without the electrical part of the switch.
2. Try to repair, jerry rig, your current switch. Depending on what is wrong, this may or may not be feasible.
3. New switch assembly. Pretty sure OEM is unavailable so only choice is aftermarket (ie EMGO.) This will make you have another key for your bike, but is a better option than parking it.
I have one (electrical) switch assembly for a 75-76 that isn't in use. It however has one of the two tabs broke that hold it into the switch assembly.
I also have 2 75-77 EMGO switch assemblies. They are a challenge to make keys for, but I've had some success. Rekeying them to the rest of your bike is out of the question.
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