I don't know how Whiskerfish and everyone else slides the engine out without dropping the rear wheel to move the drive shaft back and out of the way. I wiggled and fudged around 'til the cows came home until giving up and doing it the "easy" way.
Am I the only one?
I don't know either. I have always had to pull the pivot bolts and the shocks and slide it back to get it off the spline. Maybe we can all learn somthing.
STEVE LOGAN, 1979 GOLDWING, 1978 GOLDWING, 1976 GOLDWING
Last time I pulled a 1000, it still had the final and rear wheel on, but the tank was out and running on an IV bottle so I was able to wiggle it up out of the brackets and forward without even moving the drive shaft back at all. The 1100 I removed still had the final and rear wheel on, and the tank and heat shield were in so I had to drop it down out out the brackets slowly while gently prying the drive shaft back. There was only about a half an inch of play there and it was close, but it cleared.
The real question imo is is there an "easy" way to get that *#$@&ing snap ring off without cursing like a sailor?
Chris
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1975 GL1000
1980 GL1100i w/ '77 donor engine
That snap ring is a real bear to install or remove unless the tank is removed to allow room for your hands. Last one I installed, luck was with me and I was able to put in on in the first try by using the 90 degree snap ring pliers from above while pushing the ring onto the shaft from the bottom through the opening in the u joint...whew...that never happened before
I'll soon be wanting to remove the engine for painting so will watch this thread for ideas on that...
Had no problem with the snap ring last time. Lucky I guess. You should have heard me before I bought 4 pairs of snap ring pliers, one for just about any situation. BTW, glad I'm not the only guy who had trouble with that output/drive shaft.
Not sure about GL1000 but when I pull the engine from my '82 last winter I removed the timing belt covers so the engine could go a little further forward before touching the frame at the front. Then I could pry the drive shaft back and unhook.
canuckxxx wrote: I removed the timing belt covers so the engine could go a little further forward before touching the frame at the front. Then I could pry the drive shaft back and unhook.
I forgot to mention it, but so did I. I removed them specifically so I didn't scratch 'em, not to make room, but now that I think about it, that right side cover was awfully close to the frame.
Chris
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1975 GL1000
1980 GL1100i w/ '77 donor engine