The fueltank of my GL1 is a little bit rusty. I've grind it with Grinding-Pad. I have the rusty dust hoovered out und flushed with gasoline a few times.
Now a generally question:
Can the rusty dust damage the engine? The bigger rustgrains will be filtered by the fuel-filter!
So long as your tubes are flowing, your filter will catch the crud. Provided you have a good filter, that is. In all my experiences with crusty tanks, the fuel filter became a regular service item. Many times I had to stop on the road, remove my filter, plug it in backwards, and turn the fuel on to flush it out. (don't hook it up to the carb side when you do this)
It's not the end of the world, just a pain in the ass.
Thats correct. But the fine rust flows through the filter in the carbs und from the carbs in the engine. The fine rust works like fine abrasive in the bearings!?
Is it correct or I make me too much black thoughts? :D
The fine rust cannot be filtered out with any filter that will allow fuel to pass through and it WILL clog the idle passages.
This has nothing to do with bearings and everything to do with your carbs. This has been discussed many times and there's numerous threads here and discussion on Randakk's site too.
Bob Gill Four wheels move the body but two wheels move the soul. It's never too late to have a happy childhood! I've considered joining Insomniacs Anonymous, but I decided I'd sleep on it.
It's worth it to clean the tank, acid or electrolysis. It prevents rust in the idle passages and black thoughts in the cranial passages. I have one bike that needs it. It needs to have the carbs pulled every few thousand miles and there's crap in the idle passage every time. It's really fine rust, probably the "flash rust" that gets by the filter.
Whatever I suggest here should be given ample time for a moderator to delicately correct. I apologize in advance.
77 WING, 1200 engine with 77 heads, cams, gl1100 foot pegs, Magna V65 front end, 764A carbs, [-gone Suzuki M109 monoshock--, replaced with gl1100 shocks] gl 1200 swing arm, gl1500 final drive, wheel and rear brakes Valkyrie seat, Meanstreak tank, Sportster pipes, Power Arc ignition off crank.
77 Wing. black
83 Wing, in pieces
"Continuing education is important even if the subject matter is fairly useless (as in this case)."---Greg Foresi
You must get that tank clean if you don't want your carbs to suffer. If you want do this right, you need to clean your tank properly or coat it. Is your tank still in the frame? If so, here's a tutorialon acid washing if the tank is in (or out) of the frame. This is a very fast an effective method of cleaning a tank that leaves no residue. You can also use vinegar however, it's slower and leaves a residue that must be cleaned. There are products you can buy that will also clean your tank.
I suggest that you do a search in the 'technical forum' here using the words 'tank cleaning' 'tank rust' 'rusty tank' etc. You'll come up with several threads with advice that will probably fit your needs.
Placerville - 1976 Yellow
Survivor - BOTM - May 2011
No, there's no way the crud from your fuel is going to end up in contact with the camshafts, bearings, or any other part of the engine other than the pilot jets in the carbs. You may find a little fine crud in the bowls, but I've always used the same filters on everything, and they can be found at most motorcycle shops. It's a clear, cone shaped filter with a sintered brass element. They do clog up, but they keep out the fine particulate matter that can cause you running issues.
I use them when I clean the carbs on Chinese ATVs and the like. Those have a positively microscopic pilot jet, so a super fine filter is a necessity.
