stuck pilot jets

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pidjones
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Re: stuck pilot jets

#16

Post by pidjones »

Things like this remind me how blessed I am to have a mini-lathe and mill.
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Shadowjack
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Re: stuck pilot jets

#17

Post by Shadowjack »

I just made an observation in a thread that the small go-to machine shops in my area seem to have died off, whether it was because of age or illness, who knows? Everything is CNC now, so the old ways are going away.
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Dr. Frankenstein
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Re: stuck pilot jets

#18

Post by Dr. Frankenstein »

I hear you. Case-in-point re: the "old ways," I understand that astral navigation has been done away with at the Naval Academy because it's all done with computers now. Likewise, I would think that any Navy guy worth his salt would know how to use a sextant.

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CYBORG
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Re: stuck pilot jets

#19

Post by CYBORG »

I've done a lot of sailing, and I DO know how to use a sextant. Computers are nice, sorta, but usless in a life raft :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Hansmann
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Re: stuck pilot jets

#20

Post by Hansmann »

Hello,
I hope it’s not too inappropriate to relive this thread. My carburettor renovation has gone aground because two of the air pilot screws are helplessly rusted, and I cannot remove them. To that end, I have messed around with two bodies that I do not believe are salvageable anymore. The two others are fine. Instead, I have found a pair that comes from another 1982 model. That is, they should have screwed in the main jets. Yet mines bear the number “49BATK” stamped into the houses, whereas the one I am considering joining my two functional bodies that I already have has the number “48ASD”. Does anyone know what makes the difference, and could they fit together?
Kind Regards,
Hans
past:
Yamaha XS 650 1975
Kawasaki Z650 SR 1983
current:
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Old Fogey
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Re: stuck pilot jets

#21

Post by Old Fogey »

pidjones wrote: Sun Jan 22, 2023 4:49 pm I think that you will also have to remove the aluminum "puck" and clean the ports under it.
Randakk says
Circular aluminum “puck.” This is about the size of a large aspirin tablet and is located beneath the bowl gasket in the main carb body. It’s necessary to cover the access point used in the manufacturing process to create by-pass transfer ports for the idle circuit. It’s mandatory that you remove these to clean the hidden passages. Usually, compressed air applied through the idle mixture adjustment screw hole will pop them out (and cause them to fly across the room!). Sometimes, they are really stuck and solvents are necessary (apply through the idle mixture adjustment screw hole). Occasionally, heat is necessary to free them. Sometimes they won’t budge and it’s necessary to remove them with brute force. In these cases, I “install” a sheet metal screw into the puck to provide the purchase necessary to remove. Unfortunately, the pucks aren’t available from Honda, so if you need replacements, you will need access to a stash of salvage parts or buy Randakk’s exclusive puck reproductions: Click here
This advice is for the 1000. These are 1100 carbs.

DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE PUCKS!

You will damage them, they have an O ring, and there are no replacement parts. (the 1000 puck is a different size)
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Hansmann
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Re: stuck pilot jets

#22

Post by Hansmann »

Hello
I hope it's ok that I resurrect the thread. I have been away and then came summer with all the outdoors. My carburettor project went south. The pilot screws are hopelessly seated, and I believe I have messed too much around the pull them out properly. Therefore, I must put the project on long-term hold or replace the left-side bodies. I have found a potential replacement set that has the number "48Aasd" stamped, whereas mine has “"49ATKB". Are they interchangeable, and what are the differences? I somehow suspect that one set is designed for stricter emissions regulations.
Thanks
Hans
past:
Yamaha XS 650 1975
Kawasaki Z650 SR 1983
current:
Honda gl 1100 1982
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