The dowels are very difficult to remove, either from the head or from the block.
I found a way to do it with a drill and a vice grip. It worked well for the one stuck on the head. I'm planning to do it again for the ones that stuck to the block
There have been a lot of discussions on removing stuck dowel pins on a lot of forums. I've had some luck moving ones that aren't too badly stuck by filling them with grease and hammering a close fitting rod into the grease (hydraulic pressure) but that only works if you have something that fits closely. Other than that the method you show is probably the best.
I used to clean them up to re-use but then I found out that they are inexpensive and easy to get (used on a lot of models) so I now order enough to replace all the dowel pins before I take something apart and the ones I don't need will keep for the next time.
I also apply anti-seize before installing them to help keep them from corroding in the next time.
Sidecar Bob wrote: ↑Wed May 11, 2022 3:22 pm
- When you have removed all you can that way take a fresh sharpening stone that has never been used to sharpen anything (must be flat and free of oil or other contaminants), dip it into clean water a drop or 2 of detergent won't hurt) and rub it against the surface you are preparing in a circular motion. Periodically dip the stone back into the water to clean it and wipe off the surface you are preparing and if there are still bits of gasket or sealant repeat until the surface is smooth & shiny.
There was some discussion a year or 2 ago about the damage abrasive particles from Scotchbrite pads can do if they get into the oil stream. Since then I don't use it on anything I can't flush thoroughly afterward.
The Honda mechanics from where I buy my spare parts told me and showed me yesterday exactly the same thing. He uses a sharpening stone and bannish the use of scotchbrite !
From what I have seen sharpening stone can be made with aluminium oxyde or silicon carbide abrasive. I also found arkansas stone. Which one should be the best ?
I guess I should avoid the one with aluminium oxyde as it's what makes scotchbrite bad for our engines...
Arkansas stone are made of novaculite which is a kind of quartz that makes its abrasive quality.
Belgium stone are made of coticule, another kind of quartz.
Ceramic stones (artificial) are made of aluminium oxyde or silicon carbide.
Corindon is also almost pure Al2O3.
Which one would be your choice ? Which one woould you should avoid as a sharpening stone ?
I never thought much about what they are made of. I inherited a box of sharpening stones so I found one that was flat and hadn't been oiled and that's what I use.
I think the difference between using a stone and a pad is that bigger pieces come off of the pad while most of what I see when using the stone is metal (the stone is brown but the water turns black).
Also, I have better confidence that the stone leaves a flat surface because it is not as easy to concentrate it at one point as with a pad and fingers and it seems to clean the old gasket and any sealant off with less effort.
Sidecar Bob wrote: ↑Sat May 14, 2022 11:20 am
I never thought much about what they are made of. I inherited a box of sharpening stones so I found one that was flat and hadn't been oiled and that's what I use.
I think the difference between using a stone and a pad is that bigger pieces come off of the pad while most of what I see when using the stone is metal (the stone is brown but the water turns black).
Also, I have better confidence that the stone leaves a flat surface because it is not as easy to concentrate it at one point as with a pad and fingers and it seems to clean the old gasket and any sealant off with less effort.
I totally agree. I hope my scotchbrite adventure didn't make me dig too much like San Andreas Fault...I shall get a straight edge and sharpening stone soon to control and make it the more flat and scratchless I can
nicdes wrote: ↑Sat May 14, 2022 9:32 am
The dowels are very difficult to remove, either from the head or from the block.
I found a way to do it with a drill and a vice grip. It worked well for the one stuck on the head. I'm planning to do it again for the ones that stuck to the block
20220513_194247.jpg
That's the same method that I use if they won't come out with dry rubber gloves.
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Hi guys,
I think I'm done with the heads. What would you suggest to thoroughly clean it.
Im thinking about 3 or 4 options but dont know which one to choose...
1 - put it in the disher
2 - Wash it in boiling water with detergent
3 - use a karcher
4 - get it to the mechanics who will put it in a hot tank
1 - Your wife must be very forgiving.
2 - If the detergent is good the water doesn't need to be boiling.
3 - NEVER use a pressure washer on anything that has oil seals or anything similar. They produce enough pressure to force hot, soapy water past the seals and into where it can cause problems.
4 - Why? Are you trying to strip the paint or something?
Personally, I would just wipe the outer parts of the heads with a mild solvent like mineral spirits and wipe the mating surfaces with a stronger solvent like lacquer thinner right before assembly.
Thank you Bob.
I shall prepare the mating surfaces with isopropanol.
I also got an old bolt. Made kind of a canal in the thread to clean the holes before assembly.