Solenoid issues

[gdonlo04]

I sent this in yesterday but is appeared to have gone into the abyss.

Power is on, Starter switch is on run, bike is in neutral, batter tested and fully charged, new starter installed and checked before installation with jumper cable to see if it spun. When I hit the start switch button the solenoid clicks but no crank. I did read that the solenoid can click and that means it is working. can this solenoid click and still malfunction?

Also, FYI 1975 Honda Gl 1000. Clymer book reads- all I have to do is remove the (2) 10mm bolts and disconnect the wire and the starter will come out. installation is the reverse. NOT SO.
YES, it will come out of the engine but you cant get it off the bike due to two things. Exhaust bolt is in the way and the left side frame arm is in the way. No youtube videos on this topic. You must remove the left side frame arm to get enough space to take the starter off the bike.

[desertrefugee]

Might want to check your frame ground - behind the left engine mount triangle.

[gdonlo04]

are you talking the wire that runs from the starter directly to the solenoid? I did trace that back from the starter to see where it went. I did clean the connectors off the solenoid both pos and neg. I did check the 30 amp fuse too.

[desertrefugee]

No. The negative battery cable runs to the triangular engine mount (bottom point). If that connection has deteriorated after 40 years, your solenoid might possibly behave just as you describe.

[77Gowing]

No. The negative battery cable runs to the triangular engine mount (bottom point). If that connection has deteriorated after 40 years, your solenoid might possibly behave just as you describe.

+1
As a result the connection in question will not support adequate current flow, hence no start.

[RB]

Possible issues:
bad ground as stated above
hyrolocked..loosen or pull plugs try again
shorted positive cable/stud when you removed/installed the cable to the stud on the starter
bad battery under load, shows good voltage sitting but not under load

[Sidecar Bob]

When you tested the starter motor was it mounted to the engine or loose? Sometimes they can spin without a load but not have enough oomph to turn the engine.

And it could be the solenoid. Sometimes the contacts inside them get badly pitted and stop conducting. Systematic troubleshooting is the best way to find your problem:
1) Measure the voltage across the battery at rest and while you are pressing the Start button.
- If the voltage decreases significantly while the button is pressed but the starter motor doesn't turn you probably have either a bad starter motor or a hydrolocked or otherwise obstructed engine. Check for an obstructed engine by turning it with a wrench.
- If the voltage doesn't change while the button is pressed power isn't getting to the starter motor. go to 2
2) Connect the voltmeter between the battery's positive terminal and one of the bolts on the engine (ground).
- If the voltage is less than it was with the meter connected directly to the battery you probably have a bad ground connection.
- If the voltage is the same go to 3
3) Leave the meter connected to ground and move the other meter lead to where the battery's positive cable connects to the solenoid.
- If there is no voltage the cable is bad or one of the connections is loose or dirty. Remove the cable. clean the ends and re-install and try again.
- If there is voltage at the solenoid end of the positive cable go to 4
4) Leave the meter connected to ground and move the other meter lead to where the cable from the starter motor attaches to the solenoid and observe the meter while pressing Start.
- If there is no voltage when Start is pressed voltage the solenoid is probably bad.
- If there is no voltage go to 5
5) Leave the meter connected to ground and move the other meter lead to where the starter motor cable connects to the solenoid and observe the meter while pressing Start.
- If there is no voltage the solenoid is probably bad.
- If there is no voltage go to 6
6) Leave the meter connected to ground and move the other meter lead to where the starter motor cable connects to the solenoid and observe the meter while pressing Start.
- If there is voltage at the solenoid end of the cable but no voltage at the starter motor end the cable is probably bad.
- If there is voltage at the starter motor the starter motor is probably bad.

[gdonlo04]

I tested it off the bike. What is hydrolocked?

[Sidecar Bob]

Hydrolocked means a cylinder is filled with fluid (usually fuel or coolant) so hydraulic pressure prevents the piston from moving.

[gdonlo04]

I will pull plugs and check.

I am dealing with a few issues and trying to address one at a time. 1. starter stopped before the 2nd issue. I was push starting the engine before I broke down on the highway. . 2. Overheated coming back from the beach 2 weeks a go. had bike towed. so the repairs begin.
it was weird. riding for 2 plus hours, stopped for gas. push started it and hit the highway, temp read cold...should be hot after 2 hours. then all of a sudden a woosh sound temp shot up to HOT, RPM dropped, white smoke out the left exhaust pipe. Antifreeze started coming out the overflow. Fan was working.
I have new thermostat and hoses. only 245 miles of that repair.
Plan:
1. get starter fixed.
2. fill radiator with lost fluid.
3. start bike briefly to see if smoke still coming out. Make sure does not overheat
4. drain and change oil. see whats in the oil. hopefully the heads did not blow.
5. pull thermostat and test for failure. If test good go to water pump.
6. I need to find out how to test water pump ? Not muck on You Tube.
Q. if I am in there replacing the water pump. Is it a good time to pull oil pump and replace that? always want to save money and labor time. or do I leave it alone and see how long it will last?

[desertrefugee]

You have bigger problems than you noted above: Blown head gasket(s).

[Track T 2411]

You have bigger problems than you noted above: Blown head gasket(s).

+1 almost certainly, unless you have an observable leak. I'll bet if you pull the spark plugs, one or both on the left side will look much cleaner than those on the right. Personally, I would start there first. I wouldn't try to run the engine, as the oil could be contaminated with coolant.

As far as diagnosing the water pump, simply pull off the lower radiator hose inlet to expose the front of the pump. Any significant side - to - side play or excessive rotational play is bad news...

[ericheath]

Good how-to’s with pics in Shoptalk. Experienced wrenches can do them in a few hours. My first ones took me all of two days. Petrified the whole time. There a few videos out there too.

[RB]

+1 ON BLOWN HEAD GASKET..and water in a/the cylinders..plugs out turn her over and see what shoots out..water..gas..I bet water.

Note teh oil pump and water pump are on different ends of the bike and not related except by the shaft..totally different processes to get to.

[Sidecar Bob]

Actually, there are two oil pumps on opposite ends of a shaft that runs from the front of the crankcase to the back. The "scavenge" pump is in the rear and you have to remove the rear cover and clutch to get at it. The main pump is right behind the water pump and in fact, the forks on the water pump shaft engage with the oil pump shaft through the oil seal on the main oil pump. The main pump can be accessed by removing the transmission (front) cover.

In the cases of both oil pumps, instead of just replacing it you should check the clearances and if its not excessively worn just replace the gasket U seals. The water pump can be rebuilt too (I just did the one in my "new" engine) for about 1/3 the price of a new one

FWIW, it is possible that your starter motor wasn't turning the engine because it was hydrolocked due to coolant in one or both of the left cylinders.

Just because a head gasket blew doesn't mean the oil is contaminated. It depends on what part(s) of the gasket failed and if it only blew between the combustion chamber and the water jacket the oil should be OK. But oil is cheaper & easier to replace than big end bearings so it wouldn't hurt to drain it and have a look. If it comes out clean & clear you can leave the oil filter in place and even re-use the same oil if you had to, although most of us would replace it with new. BUT if it comes out looking like a chocolate milkshake you need to flush it out and replace the filter too.