clutch cable

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Boxeerman
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Re: clutch cable

#31

Post by Boxeerman »

take out pivot bolt for handlebar lever and swing it out to get more slack so you can fit the lower engine end of the cable in its saddle
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Re: clutch cable

#32

Post by ifm61 »

you had to start that ball rollin' didn't you Sugs... well, THIS time around, to get this thing
139.jpg
139.jpg (110.2 KiB) Viewed 367 times
in front of a lens took me all of 5 minutes, so at least i'm gaining something from the whole experience !
with the dust cover off, i took this shot
135.jpg
135.jpg (79.17 KiB) Viewed 367 times
that's with the cable 'tightened' but actually still plenty slack at the lever. with all the adjusters slackened back off, i was easily able to push my finger down on the lifter arm and take the strain of the spring. pulling the lever caused the spring to extend again, and i had to return it manually. did that a couple times with the same result = cable sticking??? new cable possible remedy, or continue probing...
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Sugs
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Re: clutch cable

#33

Post by Sugs »

Well, you have a different cable than mine, no ring to slide on yours so that can't be the problem. Could be a sticky cable needing some lube, if that doesn't help might be time for a replacement. Can you gently lever the clutch arm with something to see if it returns on its own without the cable attached?
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Re: clutch cable

#34

Post by Goboy »

Ebay photo with spring attached.
Clutch Cable Housing Spring.JPG
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You're too small to ride a hog Billy!

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Previous bikes: 05 Yamaha FJR 1300, 79 Suzuki GS 1000, 75 Yamaha XS 650, 73 Kawasaki S2 350
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Re: clutch cable

#35

Post by ifm61 »

AAARRRGGGGHHHHHHHH ! I'm just not getting this cable adjustment sorted !
slack at the top, slack in the middle, nut and washer off the lifter arm, spring disconnected, cable end squeezed into the holder at the lifter arm end, spring reconnected, lifter arm back on bolt, washer on, screw tightened, backed off, lock nut.
adjust at the middle. spring starts to extend at bottom end. lever, though slacked right off feels tighter, then goes limp again...
where am i going wrong? does the 'oblong' hole on the lifter arm sit only in a certain fashion? there appears to be 2 'flattened edges' at the end of said screw, (see photo above) but i can't seem to wriggle the hole in the lifter arm snug on to it and i'm thinking that's where my problem lies. I've lubed the cable and let it sit 3 days before this trial tonight, but alas...
any suggestions/confirmations/damnations gleefully accepted
Last edited by ifm61 on Thu Mar 22, 2018 11:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: clutch cable

#36

Post by Whiskerfish »

if it is going limp at full throw then either the throwout adjustment is incorrect https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... 33#p453033
Or there is something wrong inside.
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ifm61
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Re: clutch cable

#37

Post by ifm61 »

Whiskerfish wrote:if it is going limp at full throw then either the throwout adjustment is incorrect https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... 33#p453033
Or there is something wrong inside.
would you care to elaborate a little, just in case... and on that note, i've read a few that said, 'yes you can' to clutch work with the engine 'in' but considerably more gave it the thumbs down. what's your opinion? compromise and take the rear wheel out?
before i try anything, i'm going to give it one more go and slacking off everything, (including the lever housing from the handlebar) in the hope that will allow me the fraction more cable i'll need to see if that lifter arm won't wiggle over the flattened edges of that threaded piece. just for my own sanity if nothing else. then i'll start searching on youtube...
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Re: clutch cable

#38

Post by Whiskerfish »

you need to reset that quarter turn adjustment at the bottom of the page in the link I provided. I do not know if throwout adjustment is the proper term but that is what I call it. If nothing else bad has happened inside than that should fix the issue.

For inside work you can do everything with the engine in the frame except get the basket out. Octane has a great tutorial on the clutch here: https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... 417#p54417
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
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gltriker
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Re: clutch cable

#39

Post by gltriker »

ifm61 wrote:AAARRRGGGGHHHHHHHH ! I'm just not getting this cable adjustment sorted !
slack at the top, slack in the middle, nut and washer off the lifter arm, spring disconnected, cable end squeezed into the holder at the lifter arm end, spring reconnected, lifter arm back on bolt, washer on, screw tightened, backed off, lock nut.
adjust at the middle. spring starts to extend at bottom end. lever, though slacked right off feels tighter, then goes limp again...
where am i going wrong? does the 'oblong' hole on the lifter arm sit only in a certain fashion? there appears to be 2 'flattened edges' at the end of said screw, (see photo above) but i can't seem to wriggle the hole in the lifter arm snug on to it and i'm thinking that's where my problem lies. I've lubed the cable and let it sit 3 days before this trial tonight, but alas...
any suggestions/confirmations/damnations gleefully accepted
referencing post #36 by Whiskerfish providing a link to the Factory Service Manual lifter screw adjustment procedure.

The Factory Service Manual's lifter screw adjustment procedure apparently assumes, I guess, that everybody has adjusted a clutch before.
Because of their technical writer's assumption, a critical observation is left out of their step-by-step procedure.
Unfortunately, We've seen cases where fellows attempting to adjust that screw messed up. :-?

When you were attempting that lifter screw adjustment, first the locknut was loosened, then the adjuster screw was backed out (counterclockwise) until there was no apparent contact internally. Correct? "WAS I SUPPOSED TO?!" :shock: yes.

That's where the technical writers assumption (oversight?) that you would know to do so, first, can cause a problem with the adjustment procedure. :-?
IF you had known to back out the adjuster screw first, at that point the adjuster screw should rotate with just fingertips effort. There should be no pulling influence by the clutch cable on that lifter lever's extension spring during the screw adjustment procedure, as well.

Did you turn the adjuster screw in (clockwise) until it bottomed with a screw driver, or just your fingertips until you felt a small resistance?
Cliff (74yrs ;) )

Keep your eyes and ears open and you'll learn something new, everyday. tumb2

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Cliff

'75 GL1000 home built trike; http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=39996
October,2017 BOTM :shock: https://nakedgoldwingsclub.com/forum/page/Welcome

previous rides:
1953 H-D Servi-car, naked, 1969-1978 (serial#53G1559 committed to memory!)
1980 CB900 Custom (triked) 1997-2003 .... R.I.P.
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Re: clutch cable

#40

Post by ifm61 »

Cliff, you've no idea how you've warmed my heart just reading that piece. I found that 'tutorial' just this side of useless when I read the manual. Considering how little room there is for starters, gauging the 'no apparent contact internally' distance is hit or miss at best when you're on the smallest ratchet known to Canadian Tyre, ditto for the 'extension' bar, then the longest flat-edged bit you can get your paws on... but now I've read this, it's answered another piece of the 'adjustment' puzzle. Wish me luck, I'm goin' in...
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Re: clutch cable

#41

Post by ericheath »

anim-cheers1 Cliff-
Whatever I suggest here should be given ample time for a moderator to delicately correct. I apologize in advance.
77 WING, 1200 engine with 77 heads, cams, gl1100 foot pegs, Magna V65 front end, 764A carbs, [-gone Suzuki M109 monoshock--, replaced with gl1100 shocks] gl 1200 swing arm, gl1500 final drive, wheel and rear brakes Valkyrie seat, Meanstreak tank, Sportster pipes, Power Arc ignition off crank.
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Re: clutch cable

#42

Post by ifm61 »

"Continuing education is important even if the subject matter is fairly useless (as in this case)..." Wise words to live by, especially at 11:00p.m. on a Friday night.
I got 'er done Cliff ! In the process, I answered my own question about the 'seating' of the lifeter arm over the adjustment screw, and I also learned that The Beast will always have the last laugh - not content with taking the clutch lever assembly off at the handlebar, once the cable was back in its 3 slots, i had to remove the handlebars themselves to get the now entire assembly back on again...
So now I'm at this point: delighted, but still requiring some adjustment on cable play. The lever is very stiff to pull. At the handlebars its slacked off to the max ie the adjuster is screwed right in. At the secondary adjustment point, I left some play, in that the screw is backed off some, maybe a 1/2." Which leaves the questionable $64 million lifter arm scenario... Walk me through this. I slacken off the lock nut, use my McGyver drill bit/extension bar/mini-ratchet to loosen the adjuster screw to a point where i can do it with fingertips, ensure theres no load on the spring, AND HERE'S THE TRICKY PART, do i fingertip tighten until there's 'resistance' and back off 3/4 turn, or use the McGyver device (which I notice adjusts that screw considerably more) until there's 'resistance' and back off 3/4 turn??? My sanity rests on your answer Cliff, no biggie...
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gltriker
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Re: clutch cable

#43

Post by gltriker »

ifm61 wrote:"Continuing education is important even if the subject matter is fairly useless (as in this case)..." Wise words to live by, especially at 11:00p.m. on a Friday night.
I got 'er done Cliff ! In the process, I answered my own question about the 'seating' of the lifeter arm over the adjustment screw, and I also learned that The Beast will always have the last laugh - not content with taking the clutch lever assembly off at the handlebar, once the cable was back in its 3 slots, i had to remove the handlebars themselves to get the now entire assembly back on again...
So now I'm at this point: delighted, but still requiring some adjustment on cable play. The lever is very stiff to pull. At the handlebars its slacked off to the max ie the adjuster is screwed right in. At the secondary adjustment point, I left some play, in that the screw is backed off some, maybe a 1/2." Which leaves the questionable $64 million lifter arm scenario... Walk me through this. I slacken off the lock nut, use my McGyver drill bit/extension bar/mini-ratchet to loosen the adjuster screw to a point where i can do it with fingertips, ensure theres no load on the spring, AND HERE'S THE TRICKY PART, do i fingertip tighten until there's 'resistance' and back off 3/4 turn < YES! or use the McGyver device <NO! (which I notice adjusts that screw considerably more) until there's 'resistance' and back off 3/4 turn??? My sanity rests on your answer Cliff, no biggie...
This is most likely TOO much information, but......


QUESTION! Has your lift lever extension spring been stretched lengthwise to the point where the individual coils no longer touch each other when the lifter lever is fully in its correctly 'parked' position?
see Goboy's post #34 for an example of a dimensionally correct extension spring.

Unlike your situation, I have the luxury of not having a rear wheel and inner fender installed on my trike to obstruct my view of the lifter lever adjuster screw. Also, the lifter components ( 7,831 miles since the bike was first operated) had never been touched, weren't corroded, etc.. I've changed the clutch cable assembly twice, (at 7,831 and ~15,000 miles) because what I finally discovered was prior to my ownership an aftermarket clutch lever had been installed, and that Magura brand clutch lever had way too much range of motion and had been destructively bending the cable strands at the upper end.

NOTE! Do not have the upper end of the clutch cable installed into the clutch lever and perch during the lifter screw adjustment procedure. Did you actually obtain the correct GL1000 clutch cable assembly to install on your bike?

Anyway...... I loosened the lifter arm adjuster screw locking nut, then backed out (counterclockwise) the lifter adjuster screw to allow me to rotate the lifter lever clockwise to gain a better angle of attack to its lower cable end anchor clevis.(yes, the extension spring was fighting me in the mix, as well) Removed the old cable assembly, then installed the new clutch cable assembly end into the lifter lever clevis and the extension spring rapidly pulled the lifter lever (and newly installed clutch cable) back to its parked positon.. Then, with my fingertips, I rotated the adjuster screw in (clockwise) until there was internal contact resistance, then backed the adjuster screw out (counterclockwise) 3/4 of a turn. Hold the screw in that position, and finally tighten the locking nut.
Don't get carried away over tightening the nut and strip threads. At that point you can push the lever clockwise, against the extension spring's tension, with your fingertip until it stops, and when fingertip pressure is released, the extension spring should rapidly pull the lifter lever back (counterclockwise) to the parked position.


To finish up the external, clutch cable assembly adjustments, follow the service manual instructions. tumb2
Last edited by gltriker on Sat Mar 24, 2018 3:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Cliff (74yrs ;) )

Keep your eyes and ears open and you'll learn something new, everyday. tumb2

New users please visit our "Shop Talk" for common tips and help: <---jdvorchak
http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/page/ST
^^^^^^^click up here^^^^^ :oldies

RE: a thorough fuel tank cleaning
"And your carbs will thank you. They no longer live down stream from a sewage plant." -gregforesi tumb2
"Can't see the paint when your looking thru the handlebars..........." -Oldewing ;)
"I'd rather Ride than Shine" -RAT tumb2 Me Too!!

Cliff

'75 GL1000 home built trike; http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=39996
October,2017 BOTM :shock: https://nakedgoldwingsclub.com/forum/page/Welcome

previous rides:
1953 H-D Servi-car, naked, 1969-1978 (serial#53G1559 committed to memory!)
1980 CB900 Custom (triked) 1997-2003 .... R.I.P.
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gltriker
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Re: clutch cable

#44

Post by gltriker »

Whiskerfish has posted, many times over the years, a link to the factory correct proper routing of the throttle and clutch cables on the GL1000. Take your time and with the correct cable, and routing paths, it works just swell! ;)

https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... 08#p687308

Last bit of information ;)

Scroll to the bottom of this and other pages, too, to SIMILAR TOPICS.
There you will find many older posts, typically 5 each time, with a wealth of information. action1

Done. tumb2
Cliff (74yrs ;) )

Keep your eyes and ears open and you'll learn something new, everyday. tumb2

New users please visit our "Shop Talk" for common tips and help: <---jdvorchak
http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/page/ST
^^^^^^^click up here^^^^^ :oldies

RE: a thorough fuel tank cleaning
"And your carbs will thank you. They no longer live down stream from a sewage plant." -gregforesi tumb2
"Can't see the paint when your looking thru the handlebars..........." -Oldewing ;)
"I'd rather Ride than Shine" -RAT tumb2 Me Too!!

Cliff

'75 GL1000 home built trike; http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=39996
October,2017 BOTM :shock: https://nakedgoldwingsclub.com/forum/page/Welcome

previous rides:
1953 H-D Servi-car, naked, 1969-1978 (serial#53G1559 committed to memory!)
1980 CB900 Custom (triked) 1997-2003 .... R.I.P.
ifm61
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Re: clutch cable

#45

Post by ifm61 »

you sir, are a prince amongst men...

after a slight pause, a not so Good Friday, but an extremely satisfying Saturday morning, she's on the road. again. the relief emanating from me is tangible ! thanks for all those taking the time to reply and/or nudge me in the right direction. may all your chocolate eggs be big ones !!
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