Goldwind Engine

[2wheelsor6feet]

I bought a Gold wing 1100 For really cheapThe bike has been sittingFor about 10 yearsThe engine was Seized i unseized it the bike has under 32 feet k miles when i manually trun engine over i hit a spot where its hard to turn im thinking the Bearings are bad on the Crankshaft any idea that can help i haven put the carb back yet to try starting it

[Don R]

The tight spot is probably the rusty area on the cylinder that was stuck.

[desertrefugee]

Agreed. Wouldn't hurt to squish a little WD40 or equivalent into the cylinders with the plugs out for a little exercise. The crank bearings will just have to survive until oil pressure is restored. But, if it has sat outside uncovered for 10 years, turning the motor over might do some harm if there's no oil film left, moisture got inside and contact surfaces were compromised. If stored inside, I'd probably risk spinning it around a few times with lubed cylinders.

[RB]

First it gets hard to turn by hand as the valves are activated so that could be what you are feeling..but Yes pULL all the plugs squirt in some diesel, oil, acetone/aft 50/50 mixture ..or ??? to lube and loosen things up. If you loosen all the valves and the tightness goes away you'll know for sure if that's the reason for the harder turning..

Lots to do to start up a stored bike after 10 years go to randakk's site and read the section on long storage startups..basically change all fluids..brakes,radiator,gas tank. rebuild/clean carbs, new tires, new timing belts, maybe rebuild masters, rear hub oil, re grease the rear splines., check compression, clean rebuild starter, and lots more to do it right..

[rcmatt007]

some good advice.... I sprayed a bunch of PB blaster down the spark plug holes on my 79 project and let it sit....

be sure to go to the introduction are and introduce yourself

[JSBail]

One tip you may seriously consider is that if it's sat for 10 years and is locked up as mine was, don't get into any kind of hurry setting valve lash once it's freed up, instead wait until after it's up and running and has had some time to run a bit so the valves can rid themselves of any deposits between the valve face and seat THEN go ahead and set the valve lash. I set the lash on mine before it had fired up on its own and when I got around to doing a tune up on it about a year later I found the valves had maybe .002 or less clearance. I couldn't figure out how the valve lash ended up being tighter until it dawned on me that when I initially set the lash the first time there was probably some rust and other crud between the face of the valve and the seat preventing the valves from seating properly into their seats so once the engine was running and the valves were rid of that crud my valve lash diminished too.

[scootsx2]

Read this: http://www.randakksblog.com/starting-a- ... /#more-687

[JSBail]

Read this: http://www.randakksblog.com/starting-a- ... /#more-687

I followed Randakks tip as well when I first got mine running.

[low-side]

On the valve adjustment, I think that I would check the clearance frequently rather than waiting a bit to do it. When I recently fired up a 1000 after a decade of sitting, I found all 4 exhaust were tight before startup. I also recommend Randakk's startup procedure. Works really well; you won't believe the garbage that comes out in the first few oil changes.