drilled rotors

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sgwilly
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drilled rotors

#1

Post by sgwilly »

Finally got around to drilling my rotors. Had the wheels off to get new tires and figured this was the right moment. Couldn't find any directions in the forum so I figured I'd at least post some pics with some tips. There are other bike forums that have tutorials and I'd suggest you read up on whatever you can find (XS1100 was one of the better documented ones - even described in detail on how to design a template).

Why: Because they're suppose to work better in the rain.

Time: 3-4 hours (does not include removing and installing wheels).

Tools:
drill press
1/4" drill bit
3/8" drill bit
5/8" counter sink
cutting oil
big cardboard box (to catch all the oil and metal shavings)

As far as a pattern I just traced the diameter of the rotor onto a thick stock piece of paper (important to use thick stock) and then started to divide it up like a pizza pie. I didn't have a protractor or a compass, but it is possible to do a decent job with a ruler (if you were paying attention in geometry class). I then measured and marked where the 3 1/4" holes and 2 3/8" holes would be centered to have overlap across the rotor surface. I stayed about 1/8" away from the outside even though it appears that the front brake pads ride out there. I then cut the ring out and taped it onto the rotor and punched the center marks.

Image

Before you punch the second front rotor - make sure you line up the mount holes and align the patterns on both rotors - if you want them to line up that is. If you do a swirl pattern you'll have to reverse it to match the opposite side.

Image

Now it's time to set up the drill press. If you have a bench version like mine, put it in a big cardboard box to catch the oil and metal shavings - it's very messy by the time you finish. I also clamped a 3/4" piece of plywood. You won't need to clamp down the rotor - just hold it in place when you drill.

Image

Key Points:
Set the drill to the slowest speed you've got (400-600 rpm).
Don't use a lot of force - let the bit do the cutting.
Use LOTS of cutting oil.


Even after drilling all three rotors my drill bits were still sharp (get the best ones you can). Use the counter sink for a few seconds on each hole to get a small bevel on the edge.

Wash them like you mean it. I then took a wet emory cloth to clean up the rotor edges and discoloration on the surface.

And that's about it.

Image

They also look a lot cooler.
Last edited by sgwilly on Fri Dec 26, 2008 11:33 am, edited 1 time in total.
Steve
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#2

Post by Sagebrush »

Say, first time is for practice and second is for the money. Since you've completed your learning process how about I bring my rotors over and you can do mine :-D . Seriously, nice job. Let me know how they do in the rain. There is serious room for improvement in the braking ability of these old wings when riding on wet roads.
Dean Spalding
Raleigh, NC

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dan filipi
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#3

Post by dan filipi »

I gotta buy me a drill press.

Nice job sg.
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sgwilly
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#4

Post by sgwilly »

dan filipi wrote:I gotta buy me a drill press.
I got mine free. It's one of those 60 year old, 150 lbs. bench versions. I love that damn thing.

Dean - I still own you so anytime you want them drilled let me know. I'll even hang onto my templates.
Steve
'09 Yamaha FJR1300AE
'99 Valkyrie Tourer
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'83 GL1100 MonkeyWing (on IR)
'75 GL1000 (in the queue)
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#5

Post by Sagebrush »

I've got a couple of front rotors off the bike right now. Could bring 'em over tonight or tomorrow. Let me know.
Dean Spalding
Raleigh, NC

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#6

Post by sgwilly »

A man of action. Bring 'em on Dean. I'll let you look at mine up close before you commit.
Steve
'09 Yamaha FJR1300AE
'99 Valkyrie Tourer
'89 Isuzu Trooper 3.4L
'83 GL1100 MonkeyWing (on IR)
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Motowalt
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Re: drilled rotors

#7

Post by Motowalt »

Thanks for that sg...

Additionally, gregforesi posted this for drilling rotors...

http://www.ngwclub.com/gallery/d/140097 ... d9a52cb17a
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Re: drilled rotors

#8

Post by Old Fogey »

To keep the orientation of the rotors right, put them face to face, check they line up and use some long bolts to bolt them together.
You will need to block them up on the drill stand, then drill right through the two at one time!
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Re: drilled rotors

#9

Post by SloMo228 »

Old Fogey wrote:To keep the orientation of the rotors right, put them face to face, check they line up and use some long bolts to bolt them together.
You will need to block them up on the drill stand, then drill right through the two at one time!
Hey, that's a pretty good idea!
Steve

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Old Fogey
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Re: drilled rotors

#10

Post by Old Fogey »

SloMo228 wrote:
Old Fogey wrote:To keep the orientation of the rotors right, put them face to face, check they line up and use some long bolts to bolt them together.
You will need to block them up on the drill stand, then drill right through the two at one time!
Hey, that's a pretty good idea!
That's how I do them. Not so much clever, as it's just I'm not into doing twice the work if I don't have too.
"Impossible Is Just a Level of Difficulty!..."
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
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Re: drilled rotors

#11

Post by KYWinger »

Question... on my '83 Aspy the front rotors are ventilated; when I had truDisc clean up all the rotors, they wouldn't drill the front ones because of that.
:?: :?: Can ventilated rotors be drilled? I certainly don't want to mess 'em up and have to replace them...
-John-

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Oldewing
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Re: drilled rotors

#12

Post by Oldewing »

I also would not drill a vented rotor, just don't seem right..


I guess if the holes don't line up with the venting bridges............................................might go.




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Re: drilled rotors

#13

Post by sunnbobb »

If you are going to drill vented rotors, you need to consider the pattern in regards to the vents. I have been able to drill them successfully, such as on the Vyper.
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