GL1000 Rear Wheel Removal HELP!!!

JonnyFritz · #1

I currently purchased a pretty incredible GL1000. It was a show bike in the 80's and sat for most of the early 2000's. I discovered "mud" in the tank and purchased a new/used tank, but when trying to install the thing I have hit the biggest road block of my life. I spent over 6 hours today trying to remove the rear wheel. I first took the axle out, then the caliper bolt then I worked on it but nothing. I realized the shocks had been upgraded so I took off the bottom shock bolt. Still nothing. I then took off the bleeder bolt (the rear brake cylinder is trashed). This made some progress but not enough to make much a difference so the only thing I could figure was to remove (forgive me Lord Goldwing) the disc while it was still on the wheel. This freed the cylinder from the disc but the wheel still wouldn't budge. Then I gave up. Please help, what would you do?

#2

Remove The Rear Brake Mount At The Rear Axle, Slide It Out, Then The Wheel Shim, Then Slide The Wheel To The Left And Out Of The Bike.... You'll Also Need To Remove The Swing Arm To Replace The Fuel Tank...

farmertompetey · #3

You sure about removing the swingarm? I just removed tanks from two '77s, and removed rear wheel and otherwise followed Clymer manual, and was able to wrestle them out. At no point did a swingarm leave a frame.
Think I removed the lower bolts on the shocks...

Missourimike · #4

I just removed and replaced the tank on my '75 yesterday. Needing a new rear tire also, as the one on it was new...made in 1991!
Back to the tire removal...sounds like you have a 16" rear wheel? On mine, I have to pull the rear caliper bleeder valve off to get clearance and everyone needs to remove the caliper and line to the master cylinder when pulling out the tank. No need to pull the swingarm, but of course you have to take the driveline apart at the 3 bolts to the differential and roll it out with the wheel. I don't have to disconnect the shocks...(stock setup) not even for the tank removal.
As for steps on removing the tank....that's a whole 'nother page of notes and tips. Not that hard after you've done it a few times and have a soft 2# mallet handy, knowing where to hit it and at what angle!

Hope this helps. Take your time and use Patience! I've found that walking away before I got totally

saves time and money in the long run. Calm down and go back later with clear head! It's all fun.
I almost forgot....I cleaned the inside of my tanks with a rust remover called Evapo-Rust, made by Harris Chemicals. Really good stuff, non-toxic, no acid, bio-degradeable (flushable) and it only affects the rust, not the GoodMetal. Cleans good as a wire brush, for me! Check it out.
And Check the Wheel Bearings before re-installing your tire assembly! If you ever have to buy new ones...check the "feel" at the parts counter. I've found too many Chinese bearings without grease and rough as a cobb. I only accept bearings from USA, Japan,Germany or Sweden. Accept no substitutes for good bearings.

snowfan · #5

John

From one who knows...

"pretty incredible"???

Is that the best you can do to describe it?

#6

JonnyFritz wrote:I currently purchased a pretty incredible GL1000. It was a show bike in the 80's and sat for most of the early 2000's. I discovered "mud" in the tank and purchased a new/used tank, but when trying to install the thing I have hit the biggest road block of my life. I spent over 6 hours today trying to remove the rear wheel. I first took the axle out, then the caliper bolt then I worked on it but nothing. I realized the shocks had been upgraded so I took off the bottom shock bolt. Still nothing. I then took off the bleeder bolt (the rear brake cylinder is trashed). This made some progress but not enough to make much a difference so the only thing I could figure was to remove (forgive me Lord Goldwing) the disc while it was still on the wheel. This freed the cylinder from the disc but the wheel still wouldn't budge. Then I gave up. Please help, what would you do?

Jonny:

Normally here's the drill on gas tank removal:

from: http://www.randakks.com/TechTips.htm#57

If your tank is rusty, bite the bullet and remove for cleaning and re-furb. This is a bear of a job...very time consuming. Consult your manual for complete details. Generally you will have to remove the following from the bike:

Seat
Rear Shocks
Rear Wheel
Rear Fender
Rear Inner Fender
Rear Master Cylinder (no need to disturb hydraulics)
Final Drive Unit

You will also have to remove the 4 bolts which secure the top shelter (false tank). This is because the rear of the top shelter has to be raised slightly to allow the tank filler neck to slide to the rear. It helps to remove the battery box altogether, but this is not absolutely necessary.

Some manuals erroneously indicate that the swingarm and muffler have to be removed on a GL1000...this is not correct!

But in your case....all bets are off

Here's Jonny's bike:

I've responded to your email with some suggestions. Good luck!

david bergstresser sr · #7

jonny
i .also have a 75, those posts pretty much decribe how i got my wheel off. your ride lokks like a bike that i bid on ebaay couple months ago .simply gorgeous. i dont know wheree u r in philly, but im from near allentown,pa. peteybug has some good instructions for electroloyis cleaning of the tank, which u can do on the bike,if you cant find them ill fax or send a copy to u. whiskerfish, used something called red kote, available at radiator shops to recoat your cleaned tank, says he has excellent results. pm anytime, im home 24/7 almost if u need help or email bergysexp@aol.com

#8

you didn't mention if you have a stock 17" rear or a 16". as someone mentioned above, with the 16" you have to lossen the rotor to get things loose

tomward · #9

Would somone address the supporting the swingarm to prevent bending it?
What about using a wood block to put inward pressure on the swingarm to get it out?
No wonder the PO left the rear "tire" on and I use the term loosely.Its rubber,its round and its on but is it a tire?

JonnyFritz · #10

I don't know about the wheel. I'm not sure how big it is. I didn't even know it was a white wall tire until I took the bags off and climbed way down under the thing. And Yes I got it on Ebay. It's awesome no doubt but quite a nightmare as far as fixing stuff goes.
I got another tank off Ebay that the guy allegedly "had cleaned". It still has some rusty speckles in it and when I sloshed around some gas it came out with some rusty particles. Not much but it certainly could use another cleaning/coating. What would you recommend for this?

Doug Hasert · #11

On my GL110 I sometimes removed the final drive after doing everything else then the wheel comes out easy without having to lift the bike, 1 piece fender. Also deflate the tire makes it easier if you don't remove the fonal drive. Good luck. Doug

JonnyFritz · #12

John

From one who knows...

"pretty incredible"???

Is that the best you can do to describe it?

-Sorry, I've been trying to post pictures but they say I need to make 5 posts first. Words don't do very much good on this beast. As soon as I reach my quota and get the word, I'll post some photos. There are pictures online at flickr(dot com)/photos/thecorndawg they're on the right under "1975 Goldwing"

#13

WOW! that is a lot of lights!

looks like you will need to remove a LOT of tupperware before you can do anything.... do you have a mc lift?

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#14

rcmatt007 wrote:WOW! that is a lot of lights!

looks like you will need to remove a LOT of tupperware before you can do anything.... do you have a mc lift?
[/img]

Basically got to get from that to this to get the tank out. I thought I had a lot to remove.

#15

I am wondering if you bought stock in a Chrome Polish and light bulb company when you bought that bike.

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