I've been looking into cleaning the neutral switch for a while. I found a pictorial on the web ( http://rides.webshots.com/album/79679901dYHJLG ) but I had issues with the 'dual allen wrenches' on disassembly.



Messed up the holes to the point of destruction (center switch.)



Gotta be a better way. Tried chemicals and heat and wound up destroying the switch.



My biggest issue seemed to be getting the allen wrenches to stay 'upright' in the holes while applying pressure to unscrew the 'top'. My solution was to sacrifice an allen wrench to make a 'tool'. The black wrench (hardened?) snapped in the vice while bending and the piece fell into my shop's black hole (you guys keep an eye out for it in your shops. I'm curious how far it went.) So I went to a cheep silver one that bent without breaking.



Now we're in business!

_________________
Ron -- '78 Vetter/Interstate - 76 Full dressed in Vetter - 78 Nekid
"The ability to not have to have the last word, is a learned behavior.."
"Right now I’m having amnesia and deja vu at the same time - I think I’ve forgotten this before"

As I had already successfully disassembled the other 2 switches testing my 'tool', I pulled a fresh switch to do this walk through.



Clean off first.



Then get on it. First chip away the epoxy around the edge. I used a small common screwdriver for this.





Insert tool in opposing holes,



..and get the wrench on it.



Once started, finish removing by hand.







And washed off.

_________________
Ron -- '78 Vetter/Interstate - 76 Full dressed in Vetter - 78 Nekid
"The ability to not have to have the last word, is a learned behavior.."
"Right now I’m having amnesia and deja vu at the same time - I think I’ve forgotten this before"

Very creative.

I do like making tools. Sure beats overpaying for seldom used ones.

_________________
Steve -- IBA #8078 -- Winnie, the '81 Nekkid Bagger build

As the shaft in the center is near inaccessible, I gently viced it up and rocked the 'bell' off the shaft.





Now you can easily clean the shaft as well as the contacts. Once cleaned to your satisfaction, reassemble.





Just as an FYI, this is how the switch lines up in neutral



And in gear. That black area is plastic or some other insulator.



Got some little friends occupying my shop. 'Mama' ain't happy when I walk by.

_________________
Ron -- '78 Vetter/Interstate - 76 Full dressed in Vetter - 78 Nekid
"The ability to not have to have the last word, is a learned behavior.."
"Right now I’m having amnesia and deja vu at the same time - I think I’ve forgotten this before"

Just followed this and it's easy enough.

I didn't fancy removing the bell from the shaft myself as I was worried it'd be too loose when replaced, so after cleaning with petrol I used cotton-wool buds and metal polish spinning the buds between the shaft and the bell. Then made sure there was no cotton fibre still in there and clean with petrol.

I tested it with a continuity tester and it's working fine.

Only thing I'm slightly concerned about is the mention of 'epoxy' as the seal on the surface.....I used Araldite, but I'm not sure the original is actually epoxy glue, as it seems to come off surprisingly easily with a fine screwdriver....in fact some of mine was already missing.

I'll do the one on the spares bike next.

I also took the advice offered here and changed the Allen head bolts for hex....so the oil screen can be removed with the engine in the frame!



I had installed the neutral switch wrong in the photo, so I re-fitted it correctly....I put a smear of Vaseline on the body so it doesn't stick in the oil seal like before, and copper grease on the threads of all the bolts and the cable screw.

_________________
"The Moving Finger writes, and having writ, moves on,
nor all your Piety nor Wit
can lure it back to cancel half a line...
so....probably best use Tipp-Ex in future?"

1976 GL1000 "Mitzi"
1976 GL1000 and Héchard sidecar "Mitzi 2"
1977 GL1000 'The Parts Bike' now in bits
1976 XT500 'C'
1976 TT500 'C'
1980 Paris-Dakar XT500 (replica)
1992 Grinnall Scorpion SC3 prototype
1993 'Big Valve' BMW R1100RS "Red Sonja"


Hal's Nalbum

I thought about that, but with the big metal ball holding the shaft and the spring applying pressure inside the bell, where's it going to go even if it's loose?I'm not sure exactly what it is. It's purpose seems to be to assist in keeping it from unscrewing. But as Old Fogey found out, lock-tite on the screw will overpower whatever it is (at least on a NEW switch.) viewtopic.php?p=190021#p190021

_________________
Ron -- '78 Vetter/Interstate - 76 Full dressed in Vetter - 78 Nekid
"The ability to not have to have the last word, is a learned behavior.."
"Right now I’m having amnesia and deja vu at the same time - I think I’ve forgotten this before"

I didn't even consider the fact that the bell is held by spring pressure but you're right....and it'd be much easier cleaning the shaft properly with it off.

Not read Fogey's tale...I'll check it now....

_________________
"The Moving Finger writes, and having writ, moves on,
nor all your Piety nor Wit
can lure it back to cancel half a line...
so....probably best use Tipp-Ex in future?"

1976 GL1000 "Mitzi"
1976 GL1000 and Héchard sidecar "Mitzi 2"
1977 GL1000 'The Parts Bike' now in bits
1976 XT500 'C'
1976 TT500 'C'
1980 Paris-Dakar XT500 (replica)
1992 Grinnall Scorpion SC3 prototype
1993 'Big Valve' BMW R1100RS "Red Sonja"


Hal's Nalbum