79 GL1000, fork/triee bearings?

[zane]

Yeah - it's gotta be something like that, Cookie. If the welder expanded the race - well, it's pretty easy to figure out what that would mean in terms of getting the race out. The arc must contract the metal somehow. I don't know how to weld, so I don't know much about it - but it sure was a shazzaam kinda deal as far as getting those old races outta there......

When I removed the races with my friend it was on a naked frame. After he touched the race three or four times with the arc, I just turned the frame over and the race(s) just fell right out. And they were in there, believe me......

He showed me how to put the new ones in too - a piece of threaded rod, big washers, feed it through the stem, washer it off, and then just tighten the nuts on the end with the race you're setting in. Sucks right in nicely. I haven't done it yet on my GL, but I did do it on my little 400F, and it worked as he told me it would - very easily.

I'll bet you guys all likely know about that method, but I thought I'd mention it anyway (because I didn't know about it, and it made me feel pretty clever when I did it, and it worked so well.

Anyway,

Cheers.....

[Cookie]

All you have to do is make sure the races are straight on the threaded rod method.
Another nice one is the oven and dry ice method. Or if the parts is too big for an oven a heat gun.
You put the race in the freezer or dry ice and heat the other part.
The only time I saw this fail was in my pot smoking days. I put a Norton case in the oven, lit a joint, lost track of time and woke up to the smoke.
The old oil will start smoking even if you can't see it on the part. I grabbed the only heat resistant thing I could find quickly and moved the heated case out of the oven.
This is why for many years I wore a leather jacket branded Norton and refused to explain to anyone why it said that.

[phaserburn]

I hate to hijack the thread, but I am in a similar situation...

I actually got the races out no problem, any hints for getting off the lower steering bearing assembly from the steering column? It looks like a press fit. Should I just dremel cut through the bearings to get it off and repress new ones in?

Thanks,
J

[sunnbobb]

phaser, that is exactly what i did.

[puffy75]

I have posted a picture(in my gallery) of the method the training center teaches to remove the lower race on steering stems. Doing this in small increments from side to side so the race or pry bar does not gouge the pipe. It is a snug fit but a little finesse will get it off.

[Cookie]

More finess than a cut with a grinder and whack with hammer and cold chisel?

[puffy75]

More finess than a cut with a grinder and whack with hammer and cold chisel?

Yes tons more.

[roncar]

I have posted a picture(in my gallery) of the method the training center teaches to remove the lower race on steering stems. Doing this in small increments from side to side so the race or pry bar does not gouge the pipe. It is a snug fit but a little finesse will get it off.

I'm not big on the cutting, hammering, and chiseling to get things off, but that makes it look way too easy. I'm going to have to try it just to see.

[Whiskerfish]

I'm not big on the cutting, hammering, and chiseling to get things off, but that makes it look way too easy. I'm going to have to try it just to see.

I agree. I have one sitting on the bench right now just waiting for me to try this!!

[robin1731]

Puffy's way is pretty much the way I have done many races. On all the race bikes one of the first things we do is switch to the tapered bearing. So the old races have to come out. The neck is easy. The stem is too once you know the technique and have done a few dozen.
Anybody here ever ride an old KZ900 at speed with stock neck bearings? It is kinda scary . Stock swingarm bushings are not much better.

[Old Fogey]

I have posted a picture(in my gallery) of the method the training center teaches to remove the lower race on steering stems. Doing this in small increments from side to side so the race or pry bar does not gouge the pipe. It is a snug fit but a little finesse will get it off.

I'm not big on the cutting, hammering, and chiseling to get things off, but that makes it look way too easy. I'm going to have to try it just to see.

Did mine that way. Two decent size tyre levers and little bit at a time, no problem! (and no risk!)

[Cookie]

Hate to say it but I might use a torch if it came hard.

[backyardbob]

I found a replacement for the lower bearing in my 77 at the local industrial suppier, but the upper one is a "bastard size" and is not commonly available from anybody's catalogue. (probably custom designed for Honda, like the timing belts). The upper had a detent worn in it like Steve's, so I rotated the outer race 180 degrees and it was ok since the pressure was no longer on the detent. Best to get a set off Fleabay....
Hitting the outer race with an arc welder causes instant red hot and molten so the race tries to expand, but it can't due to being surrounded by steel, and when it cools the molten part solidifies and shrinks. Works great.
Fogey's pic is a good way for the inner race.

[backyardbob]

oops, guess it was roncars pic.

[Explorer]

My apologies for resurrecting an age old thread but....

I tried the heat first with an electric heat gun and it wasn't going anywhere, so I turned up the heat with a Map gas torch and it still didn't want to move.

Then I got the Dremmel out with some cut off wheels, got about halfway through and banged a rusty old screwdriver into the slot a couple of times and it popped right off.

On closer inspection, there's a crack that's not even on the same plane as the slot, so I'm guessing that when these things know you're serious, they will just give up and do your bidding.