Bin that damper plate!
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Still looking at that, Ross. Its very expensive ( I reckon it will cost around £1400/$2300 both ways) and awkward as I have to take it to Manchester for shipping (about 250 miles) and of course pick it back up from there.puffy75 wrote:Cool I did not know you were going to bring your bike.
Plus I think it's about 6 weeks shipping time which really eats into the time I have left to get some riding practice in.
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If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous!
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Bikes are already organised, Steve. I'm down to borrow one from Doug; any problems with that one, WF has offered as well.
Pete Clark(of the Heckler fame) has also very kindly chimed in with an offer so there is no shortage of bikes I can ride.
But it would really make it for me if I can possibly do this on my own machine.
I don't normally take holidays as such, just a few days here and there in this country as I don't like flying.
So this trip is a massive adventure for me, most probably a one-off.
I just hope, if I do bring it, that it's not a disappointment to everyone. Things always look better in pictures.
Pete Clark(of the Heckler fame) has also very kindly chimed in with an offer so there is no shortage of bikes I can ride.
But it would really make it for me if I can possibly do this on my own machine.
I don't normally take holidays as such, just a few days here and there in this country as I don't like flying.
So this trip is a massive adventure for me, most probably a one-off.
I just hope, if I do bring it, that it's not a disappointment to everyone. Things always look better in pictures.
"Impossible Is Just a Level of Difficulty!..."
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous!
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous!
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Before shipping your bike, watch "The Worlds Fastest Indian"... just because you know whats in the box, it's just "Cargo" to the shippers.
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That's why it has to go to Manchester. These guys ship vehicles all over the world; the bike goes into a properly designed wooden crate such as the manufacturers use.Hoosier Daddy wrote:Before shipping your bike, watch "The Worlds Fastest Indian"... just because you know whats in the box, it's just "Cargo" to the shippers.
"Impossible Is Just a Level of Difficulty!..."
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous!
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous!
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Yeeeeeehaaaaaaaaaaaa! Another one joins in! Fantastic!puffy75 wrote:Well all of this sounds very cool now so I am going to have to look into going for the whole ride!
"Impossible Is Just a Level of Difficulty!..."
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous!
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous!
- Hal
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Re: Bin that damper plate!
Wow! Fantastic! What a brilliant idea!
So did you in fact take the bike over, John?
Or borrow rides as offered?
We are thinking of doing something a bit similar, not sure when, but I've always fancied riding New York to San Francisco, and a GL sounds like a good bike to do it on. This would be with the French Gal as passenger.....
The problem would probably be finding a good reliable bike there, as the hire companies wouldn't carry anything that old, it'd probably mean what, buying one and then selling it at the end of however long?
Maybe we should work out some sort of reciprocal deal, where people in the US who want to try a bit of riding in Europe borrow a bike here, and vice versa?
Could work like the house swaps that happen in Holiday Swaps....which we intend to do once this place is a bit more finished than it is at the moment.
So did you in fact take the bike over, John?
Or borrow rides as offered?
We are thinking of doing something a bit similar, not sure when, but I've always fancied riding New York to San Francisco, and a GL sounds like a good bike to do it on. This would be with the French Gal as passenger.....
The problem would probably be finding a good reliable bike there, as the hire companies wouldn't carry anything that old, it'd probably mean what, buying one and then selling it at the end of however long?
Maybe we should work out some sort of reciprocal deal, where people in the US who want to try a bit of riding in Europe borrow a bike here, and vice versa?
Could work like the house swaps that happen in Holiday Swaps....which we intend to do once this place is a bit more finished than it is at the moment.
"The Moving Finger writes, and having writ, moves on,
nor all your Piety nor Wit
can lure it back to cancel half a line...
so....probably best use Tipp-Ex in future?"
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nor all your Piety nor Wit
can lure it back to cancel half a line...
so....probably best use Tipp-Ex in future?"
1977 GL1000 in bits
1978 SR 500 Yam
1995 Harley Sportster/Buell street-tracker
1992 Grinnall Scorpion SC3 prototype
2002 Caterham SV 220 Evo (4 wheeled motorcycle)
Hal's Nalbum
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Re: Bin that damper plate!
Maybe we should work out some sort of reciprocal deal, where people in the US who want to try a bit of riding in Europe borrow a bike here, and vice versa?
That should work.
Gord
That should work.
Gord
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‘84 GL1200i ‘R2B6' (Rat to Be 6, the last, adopted by twowings)
My Original 'RAT' was a hybrid '82 CB900/1100F
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Re: Bin that damper plate!
I replaced the original stock clutch plates with a Barnett clutch and spring setup. As directed, I inserted a plain plate first, then followed with alternating friction-plain plate. when all tightened down, the clutch basket came out flush as required. So everything looks hunky-dory! Two thumbs up to Fogey for this thread.
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---- Bradshaw Bikes custom polishing for your wing. Visit us on facebook!
1978 Learning Experience
1980 County Road Hauler "Brain Damage"
1978 Cafe Custom Gl1000 "Vyper"
1977 Bulldog Inspired "Vaincre"
1981 Street Fighter GL1100 "No Quarter"
1983 Supercharged Street Drag "Anubis" (in worx)
1983 gl1100 mint restoration "Kristen"
1985 Aspencade..pondering.
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Re: Bin that damper plate!
While I was out yesterday my clutch started acting up. It was still driveable but I left some of my back tire's rubber in the middle of an intersection when it hooked up suddenly. Since I had a damper plate fail in this engine about 10 years ago, that was my first thought. I remembered reading this in Shop Talk so I looked it up this morning before heading to the shop.
It turns out that my damper plate is still in good condition but the "B" friction disc has chunks missing from the friction material on the side that was against the clutch centre and the friction surface of the clutch centre was scored. There are wear marks in the grooves in the centre too so I decided to use the almost new looking one from the parts engine. Fortunately, I had a good "B" plate on hand and one "A" plate that is a bit thicker than the ones I took out so I have re-assembled it with two plain plates from the parts engine in place of the damper, located as Fogey recommends (I figured it was a good idea since it is already apart) and the thicker "A" in place of the thinnest of the old "A"s. Assembled this way the stack is just about the same thickness as it was before, and that doesn't even take the wear on the centre into account.
While putting it back together I came up with a couple of tips and I figured it was as good a place as any to post them:
1) I was about to crawl back under the bike and start putting the plates in one at a time when it occurred to me that there was an easier way to do it. I assembled the centre, plates & pressure plate on the bench, then put 2 of the springs on with their bolts but with a couple of 3/16" fender washers under each bolt in place of the lifter plate and tightened them just more than finger tight. After lining up the friction plate tabs with a straight edge, I was able to put the whole assembly in as one piece with only a little fiddling required to get the splines on the shaft to line up with the ones in the hole in the clutch centre.
While looking in the Haynes book for the torque specs, I noticed that they recommend putting a couple of springs & bolts in with washers to engage the clutch to provide resistance while loosening & torquing the lock nut. Good idea.
2) I used the last tab on the tab washer that came close to lining up with one of the nut's slots. This is one of those indispensable parts that you don't think of until you need one right now so as soon as I was done I ordered a new 90431-292-000 tab lock washer. When it arrives I will put it in a little plastic bag, label it and hang it on the shop wall (I have an area for things like that). It may hang there for 10 years, but the next time the clutch is apart I will have one on hand.
It turns out that my damper plate is still in good condition but the "B" friction disc has chunks missing from the friction material on the side that was against the clutch centre and the friction surface of the clutch centre was scored. There are wear marks in the grooves in the centre too so I decided to use the almost new looking one from the parts engine. Fortunately, I had a good "B" plate on hand and one "A" plate that is a bit thicker than the ones I took out so I have re-assembled it with two plain plates from the parts engine in place of the damper, located as Fogey recommends (I figured it was a good idea since it is already apart) and the thicker "A" in place of the thinnest of the old "A"s. Assembled this way the stack is just about the same thickness as it was before, and that doesn't even take the wear on the centre into account.
While putting it back together I came up with a couple of tips and I figured it was as good a place as any to post them:
1) I was about to crawl back under the bike and start putting the plates in one at a time when it occurred to me that there was an easier way to do it. I assembled the centre, plates & pressure plate on the bench, then put 2 of the springs on with their bolts but with a couple of 3/16" fender washers under each bolt in place of the lifter plate and tightened them just more than finger tight. After lining up the friction plate tabs with a straight edge, I was able to put the whole assembly in as one piece with only a little fiddling required to get the splines on the shaft to line up with the ones in the hole in the clutch centre.
While looking in the Haynes book for the torque specs, I noticed that they recommend putting a couple of springs & bolts in with washers to engage the clutch to provide resistance while loosening & torquing the lock nut. Good idea.
2) I used the last tab on the tab washer that came close to lining up with one of the nut's slots. This is one of those indispensable parts that you don't think of until you need one right now so as soon as I was done I ordered a new 90431-292-000 tab lock washer. When it arrives I will put it in a little plastic bag, label it and hang it on the shop wall (I have an area for things like that). It may hang there for 10 years, but the next time the clutch is apart I will have one on hand.
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Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
- Old Fogey
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Re: Bin that damper plate!
Beat you to it, Bob! That's in Shop Talk too.Sidecar Bob wrote:
1) I was about to crawl back under the bike and start putting the plates in one at a time when it occurred to me that there was an easier way to do it. I assembled the centre, plates & pressure plate on the bench, then put 2 of the springs on with their bolts but with a couple of 3/16" fender washers under each bolt in place of the lifter plate and tightened them just more than finger tight. After lining up the friction plate tabs with a straight edge, I was able to put the whole assembly in as one piece with only a little fiddling required to get the splines on the shaft to line up with the ones in the hole in the clutch centre.
While looking in the Haynes book for the torque specs, I noticed that they recommend putting a couple of springs & bolts in with washers to engage the clutch to provide resistance while loosening & torquing the lock nut. Good idea.
http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=20350
2) I used the last tab on the tab washer that came close to lining up with one of the nut's slots. This is one of those indispensable parts that you don't think of until you need one right now so as soon as I was done I ordered a new 90431-292-000 tab lock washer. When it arrives I will put it in a little plastic bag, label it and hang it on the shop wall (I have an area for things like that). It may hang there for 10 years, but the next time the clutch is apart I will have one on hand.[/quote]
Tab washers are getting in short supply, particularly for the 1200, so Bob's idea of forward planning is good!
"Impossible Is Just a Level of Difficulty!..."
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous!
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous!
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