Before you undertake this procedure: Read the Disclaimer!
For this lesson, we'll be spending about an hour or two changing the oil.
Hang onto your hat 'cause we're gonna dive in and get a little dirty.
Where would you like to go today?
17mm Box/Open End Wrench
You will need one of these (unless you have a Dipstick, then 19 and 22 will do, see below).
Warm It Up!
Pop the bike up on the centerstand.
Either go for a 15 minute ride or let it idle until the fan comes on. I never get the ride since I'm usually in my grubbies by this time.
While she's pollutin', round up your drain pan, funnel, new oil and rags.
Pull The Plug
CAUTION! HOT! From now on, just assume that everything on your bike is hot. Do not touch anything with your bare hands (or leg, yes) because it is hot. Wear gloves.
Put the drain pan under the front of the bike. Grab the 17mm and lay down on the right side of the bike with your head facing forward. Use the box end
to loosen the Drain Bolt. Or use a socket and ratchet and you won't have to touch the bolt. It also won't fall anywhere.
Remember, the oil is hot
. Do not go fishing around with your finger in it to retrieve the Drain Bolt. Don't worry, it'll be there later when the oil cools down.
I have a dipstick so I put the open end of the 22mm on the back nut to hold it steady. You do not want it to move. Then use the open end of the 19mm to loosen the outer fitting. When that is loose, slide it forward. Then pull straight forward on the dipstick tube to free it from the fitting.
Let the Fountain Run
Loosen the Filter Housing
Use the box end of the 17mm (or a socket) to loosen the bolt on the filter housing. Turn it out 5 or 6 turns and oil should gush out of there and back onto the engine's underside. You did bring those rags down, didn't you?
Remove the Fill Cap
Let 'er drain for about 15 minutes.
Organize while Waiting
Take the new filter out of the box. Put the old filter in the box.
Meanwhile, collect up the parts and clean them up. Do not lose anything, use one of your little parts buckets. There was no washer (#4) on mine when I took it apart this time. Lost in the shuffle but it wasn't leaking. I had to clean up and go over to Ace for these. 2 for a buck. I hope I never have to use the spare but it went into the tool kit.
If your filter housing bolt (#6) will come out of the housing (#3) it probably needs a new o-ring (#11). I have never been able to remove mine and have to use a wrench to fully remove and replace the housing. It's very hard to turn by hand. But it don't leak. Replace the o-ring if the bolt is loose.
Take out the large o-ring (#13) and inspect it. This one was on the bike when I got it. It may even be the original. Works good, never leaks. It's going back in.
Here's the order of reassembly.
- Put some fresh oil on #11 and slide it over #6.
- Slip #6 into #3 and seat it.
- Oil #13 and put it in place in #13's groove.
- Hold #3 like a bowl, drop #5 and then #4 onto the bolt.
- Oil the rubber fittings on #2 and press it onto #6.
Your 15 minutes is up.
Elapsed time: 30 minutes
Crank It Over a Few Times
Activate the Kill Switch. Crank it with the starter for a second. Wait 5 seconds. Crank1-Wait5. Crank1. Let it drain a few more minutes.
Add Half a Quart
With everything still open, drain pan in place, add about 1/2 Quart of new oil. Take a look at the splooge hole and you should see it clear up as it drains out. Takes 5 or 10 minutes. Have a beverage.
Elapsed time: 40 minutes
Install the Oil Filter Unit
There are two tabs that make a slot on the outside base of the housing. These fit over a tab on the case, it's nearest to the center of the engine. Slide the housing in, line it up on the tabs and tighten the bolt. Do not give it the full power of your 17mm. About half will do nicely. I believe it's somewhere around 20 Ft.Lb.
Same on the Drain Bolt
Inspect the copper washer and replace it if you've been having leaks. Again, mine appears original but works. Install the bolt and tighten as above with your 17mm. Not too tight, those are hardened steel bolts going into an aluminum casing.
Fill It Up
Pour in the required quantity. Mine usually drinks pretty close to 4 quarts with this procedure. I'll go to 3-1/2, wait a bit and then usually end up putting in the other 1/2. Check your sight-glass or use a dipstick to check the level. Sidecar Bob has a great suggestion for a Cheap and Easy Dipstick
to keep in the shop.
Install the Fill Cap
Start 'er up. Check for leaks. Pick up the tools.
Put on the jacket, helmet, gloves and go enjoy the rest of the day.
Revisit at the 1st Fillup
Check the level after you run a tank through her. Seems the heads need to get wet and that takes about 1/4 of a quart.
Next time you'll be able to complete this in 45 minutes
without getting your hands dirty.