Awesome photos - keep 'em coming. I'm SERIOUSLY considering trying my hand at a NGW-style resto, and this sort of thing is a huge, huge help in the decision-making process. Looks like you're making great progress,

-Matt

Yes Matt,

I learned a good thing too Try to find a RUNNING bike or at least a non-runner whitout RUST . Broken bolts, stuck clutch cable, (cover filled with crap and timingbelts cover flled with crap is too much)
I have so much work to do, i like it but for a first ever total rebuild project, this bike is too big. A cb350-550 might had been smarter for me

Today i finally got the engineblock out




The good part


The heartattack part


Spring broke, but the clutch inside look very nice


Feraz

_________________
1976 GL1000 Sulfur Yellow (CPR-mode)
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=34729

"(I am used to handle al kind of tools, People call us the local Rednecks because we fix all our own stuff )"



Brother Faraz.
If you manage to get that bike running you will have earned the all time title of a Red Neck as in the "king of Red Necks." I think you will earn the title.....

Greg.

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75 GL1000

Feraz, I can not decide if I admire you or wonder about your judgment. I can not believe the project that you took on. You have come so far, you have to conquer this. We are ALL pulling for you. If you were not across the pond, I would organize a wrenching party for you myself. Of course, I would hold it at Roady's so we could use his tools and drink his beer. You do not have to thank me for my well intended generosity, just Git er Dun as us rednecks would say! (seriously, keep up the great work!) ernie

_________________
Hope for the best, expect the worst and take what comes!

1977 Candy Sirus Blue Wing (gone but not forgotten!): Ernie's 77 Resto
1998 Yellow/Creme Valkyrie: Valk Redo
1976 Sulfur Yellow Wing (sold): Melloyellow to live again
1976 LTD #1353 (my new love!): And away we go . . . . LTD style
1970 CT90: Had too much time on my hands so . . .
1/4 of 1975 Wing #898: Team 898 - raised from the ashes

Re:

YIKES!!!!!!!!! o.0

Feraz, Did you notice that there is a guy wanting to sell/trade his sulfur yellow original covers in the for sale section. Maybe a chance to get some original yellow for shipping of your covers? Just a thought.

_________________
Hope for the best, expect the worst and take what comes!

1977 Candy Sirus Blue Wing (gone but not forgotten!): Ernie's 77 Resto
1998 Yellow/Creme Valkyrie: Valk Redo
1976 Sulfur Yellow Wing (sold): Melloyellow to live again
1976 LTD #1353 (my new love!): And away we go . . . . LTD style
1970 CT90: Had too much time on my hands so . . .
1/4 of 1975 Wing #898: Team 898 - raised from the ashes

Thanks, Matt, Greg and Ernie

Cant find the post you meant, ernie
I still have all of mine original sulfur yellow parts, just with a lot of scratches on them , I will probably let them painted one day.

There are some other things that wont stay original but will get a cafe-racer look, I will re-design the seat, frontfender and rearfender. Mainly because the chrome is in bad shape with lot of rustspots and dents. It will stay this way until I find some beter parts.


Front vender was attacked by the PO for the installation of a front brace i think. Now it will be cut, Using an english wheel on it is just too timeconsuming for this ugly thing


The spokes will stay on the bike, I will buy some extra wheels later on to re-spoke them with steel ones. Just hope they are strong enough to ride on for the time being. (surface rust)


My gasoline


Now it is just time to find a sandbasting garage


It is important to check the driveshaft clock, I heard of 2 guys in holland, they both crashed at 70MPH because of the bearings inside that suddenly failed (cardan driven instead of a chain doesnt mean no maintenaince especially after 30 years )


Feraz

_________________
1976 GL1000 Sulfur Yellow (CPR-mode)
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=34729

Faraz. Didn't the privious owner tell you he ran the bike six months prior you buying it..? You believe him now don't you.
Man I'm developing a very strong dislike for previous owners....
Hang in there buddy...

Greg.

_________________
75 GL1000

I wont give up greg!! LOL!! the PO told me the engine ran, not the bike

Yesterday wat the time too find a way to remove the most horrible phillips screws on the bike that i have ever seen.
On the waterpump area.

The best way is to take a hamer and a steel screwdriver (my gramps was a carpenter, so I took his 50+ year old quality iron tools for this job.)

The screws are quite soft iron so if you try to turn them the grip wont hold.
HIT THEM HARD ON 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock so they look like this


then hold the screwdriver at an 45 degrese angle, hit the head with a hamer, dividing the force at 12/6 and 3/9 o'clock.
You dont have to drill them out, this is faster




first I tried to get grip with a grinder, but works not as good as a hamer/screwdriver


This means the engine is in good shape doesnt it?


I think this will be the shape of the front fender


Feraz

_________________
1976 GL1000 Sulfur Yellow (CPR-mode)
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=34729

Too bad you didn’t have a drill press .If you had it would have made that horrible job go much smoother. None the less you made what you wanted happen. Good Job. I’m admiring your Grand Dad’s old tools. The hammer looks like it belonged to a black smith one time. It’s hard to say where the shavings came from .One step at a time my friend and I am hopeful you will know where all the parts go when its time to put it together..
My hat is off to you.
Gregorios

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75 GL1000

You are making excellent progress. Keep up the good work.
That oil pickup screen looks very good. You are right, that is a good sign for the condition of the motor and clutch.
I have not seen a cross-peen hammer in a long time. Greg is right, that is a favorite tool of blacksmiths. They are very useful for bending and creasing metal.
Those screws you found such a inventive way to remove are not the standard American/European Fillips screws we are accustomed to, they are JIS screws. The cutout for the driver is shallower than the American/European standard. That is why we have so much trouble with them using our standard fillips drivers. There was another thread on this subject here. You may be able to file a little off of the tip of one of your screw drivers and make it work better on them. If you look at your picture of the front of your engine with the water pump removed, you will see on the lower right corner, two fillips head screws with a dot on one side of the X shaped cutout for the driver. That dot means that they are JIS screws. You will find them all over the bike. I hope this information helps you.

_________________
Mike
So many interests, so little time...



'76 GL1000: "The Super Bee" - finished.
'75 GL1000: Basket Case, Next project in queue

Wow!! Quite the project that you've taken on...but you are doing great!

_________________
Brian Crow
1977 gl1000, with California sidecar
"KBO"!! Keep bungling on! Winston Churchill
"Bound is boatless man"

That bike looks like it spent a lot of it's life around the ocean.

Do you have a Dremel Tool? There are several small wire brushes made for the dremel. They are excellent for cleaning small areas and small parts. If you have a bench grinder you can fit a wire wheel to it for cleaning the rust from larger parts.

If you have a large battery charger that has a "start" function then take a look on the internet for cleaning parts using electrolysis. There are threads around here for using electrolysis on the inside of fuel tanks but it works for any rusted steel. Essentially you mix a cup of Arm & Hammer Washing Powder (calcium carbonate - dry dishwasher soap should work too) into about 5 gallons of water. Hook the negative lead of the battery charger to the part you want to clean and then the positive lead to a piece of bare steel (no coatings). Dunk both into the solution without letting them touch. It might take a couple of days and you'll have to wire brush the sacrificial piece of steel every hour or so (as the crud build up on it the current flow drops) but sometimes the results are amazing. The process is line-of-sight so you have to spin the part around once in a while. The process also gives off hydrogen gas so be careful. (You can ask how I know that but I'd be forced to lie.)

I also suggest you print the photo of Placerville's bike and stick it up where you can see it. That will take care of the 1% inspiration part. All you'll have left is the 99% perspiration part.

_________________
2006 GL1800 (Brutus Maximus)
1978 GL1000 (White Trash)
"My Effort" The White Trash Album
....Sharing some thoughts....
"Venting GL1000 Rotors" Hole templates for front and rear (45 holes) and how to use them
"Side Stand Indicator Light" For those of us who can't remember...
"GL1000 RearSets" Photos, CAD drawings and instructions (click "No Thumb" and then "Download Doc")

Hey, I'm Italian. Of course my wiring looks like spaghetti.

Thanks Mike, Greg, Greg and Brian.
Thanks for the JIS screws information, I will never get near these screws again
And yes Brian it could have been, in the sea for years because in Holland we live 3 meters below sea level

I use the dremel for cleaning, carb parts, just got some new o rings





Could probably use my time in a better way, just couldnt stand such ugly screws


Hope my starter still works, did buy a kickstarter just in case (although I am too skinny to use it )






Matt black is a nice colour to repaint some ultra rare sulfur yellow 76 panels isnt it?


Needed to buy another pair to paint my bike blue/greenish


Love new parts




Mmmmm...Bare metal


LOL I take a look at polkadot his (sold ) 76 Yellow quite often , I wont ever get that close, Would have to buy too much better parts.. But I will try to make it look as good as I can. Wont be stock but a little bit customised



Feraz

_________________
1976 GL1000 Sulfur Yellow (CPR-mode)
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=34729

ACHMED , you are an inspiration to me. how you sound so cheerful is beyond me. i am ready to slash my wrists over an air cut off valve and then i read your thread again.
cheers.from OZ.
PS.
blue/green is a beautiful colour. finding the paint code is another story. i will get it if it kills me.

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1975 Goldwing...viewtopic.php?f=30&t=34569
2001 CB 250 Honda
1976 LTD GL1000...(cleverly disguised as an '81 interstate) strip in progress...viewtopic.php?f=30&t=44190
1976 LTD ( a feller with two LTD's can't be all bad) viewtopic.php?f=9&t=44795
previous bikes
Sym scooter (sacrificed to the gods of overseas travel)
K6 750 four honda
CX 500 honda
CB 400 four honda
a pattern has developed.......

An LTD is........it just is.