YUP!

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Proud member of the NGW Cartel
My album: http://www.ngwclub.com/gallery/album140
Jesus is Lord ! Hope is not a plan
84 Standard ongoing project
82 Interstate 35k
84 Ascot- Has gone to new home sans sidecar. New owner is a BSA nut and will take care of the Ascot even better than me! The sidecar now hangs on the 1200 for winter riding.

I do not ask every question that comes to mind and I now have a Service Manual that answers alot of the questions I've been asking, maybe I can give this forum a break, but why do I need to rotate the crank 90 degrees? If I mark and record the position of the crank and cams and reassemble everything back in place what good does it do to rotate the crank? I am certainly not doubting your wisdom or that of the Service Manual; I must be missing an important detail.
DR

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1977 rolling restoration and freedom machine

OK, Really Simple ... If You Bring Your Motor Up To TOP DEAD CENTER As You Should (makes putting it all back together so much easier), Then Your #1 Piston Is All The Way Up In The Cylinder And Your Cams Are Under Pressure From The Valve Springs And The Rockers. And If You Take The Belt Off The Motor The Cam Will Slap Back To A Resting Position. If Your Motor Is At TDC Then Your Valves And Piston Will Collide And Can Be Damaged, Or Destroyed. By Rotating The Crank 90 Degrees You Have Pulled All Four Of The Pistons Into The Motor And There Is All The Clearance In The World Between Your Valves And Your Pistons, No Damage. Hope This Helps, Bud.

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If You Didn't Build It, Customize It, And/Or Modify It, Then It Truly Isn't Yours. Rebel Rouser

what I hear you saying is to rotate the crank 90 while the heads are off and as you reassemble, then before you reinstall the belts turn the crank 270 degrees (plus another full rotation?) and install the belts with the crank pulley arrows lined up on the marks.
DR

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1977 rolling restoration and freedom machine

Nah ... Just Turn Your Crank Back To TOP Dead Center And Then Install Your Belts. And Yes, With All The Marks In Their Corresponding Spots, Rotate The Motor A Couple Of Times To Verify The Alignment Of Your Belts And Pulleys.

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If You Didn't Build It, Customize It, And/Or Modify It, Then It Truly Isn't Yours. Rebel Rouser

Disclaimer: Do Not Attempt This If You Have Limited Mechanical Knowlege And Skill, Hire A Mechanic. My Steps Work Best For Me And They May Not Work Well For Others. This Forum And I Are Not Responsible For And Damages You Might Incur If You Attempt This Job Without The Proper Knowledge And The Proper Literature.

Time To Finish This ... Or Sort Of.

Finally Got The Seals And Gaskets. It's Time To Finish The Head Job.

Left Cam Seals, Pulley And New Timing Belts Installed. Rotated Motor Twice And The Timing Marks All Lined Up.



Installed The Water Pipes, New Orings, Water Jackets, New Gaskets And New Allen Head Bolts.



Installed Carbs, Throttle Cables, Choke Cable, Fuel Lines, Air Box And Chrome Trim Work.







Installed A New Gel Battery.



Rechecked And Adjusted The Valves To Be .004 in. Then Did A Basic Dry Compression Test When It Was All Together And Got A 135 PSI Average. Started This Job With A 90 PSI Average. After Filling The Oil I Got A 155 PSI Average Across The Board. This Is Scary. Scary Good.



Installed The Electronic Ignition And Static Timed The Motor.



Fired The Bike Up And She Purrs Like A Kitten. Installed The Covers And Radiator And Took Her Off The Table. Will Time Her Tomorrow With The Timing Gun And Sync The Carbs. Then Will Fill The Radiator.











Also On A Side Note, The Reason It Took Some Time Was It Was Time For A Change.





(Pics Can Be Viewed Here: http://www.ngwclub.com/gallery/album212)

Final Steps To Come.

Disclaimer: Do Not Attempt This If You Have Limited Mechanical Knowlege And Skill, Hire A Mechanic. My Steps Work Best For Me And They May Not Work Well For Others. This Forum And I Are Not Responsible For And Damages You Might Incur If You Attempt This Job Without The Proper Knowledge And The Proper Literature.

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If You Didn't Build It, Customize It, And/Or Modify It, Then It Truly Isn't Yours. Rebel Rouser

This a great thread for the new guys like me, Thanks for your time involved in posting this thread.

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1983 Honda Goldwing GL1100

Not A Problem... Thats Why We Are Here....

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If You Didn't Build It, Customize It, And/Or Modify It, Then It Truly Isn't Yours. Rebel Rouser

I'm sure someone will know the answer.
I was told by a Honda technician that the OEM valves have a very thin coating of Stellite on the seat surfaces and that because of this they shouldn't be ground in. Don't know the truth of this.

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ENGINE REBUILD TIPS - Stuff you won't find in the manuals!

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He is right;
the valves can not be 'ground'
but they can be 'lapped', which is what Rebel has done (I think)
even though he calls it both lapping and 'grinding'.

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Da' Supercharged Bulldog



"A designer knows he has achieved perfection
not when there is nothing left to add
but when there is nothing left to take away"

Antoine de Saint-Exupery

OK, Technically You Guys Are Correct ... Lapped ... Not Ground.

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If You Didn't Build It, Customize It, And/Or Modify It, Then It Truly Isn't Yours. Rebel Rouser

Well I Finaly Got Some Free Time For The '76 Bober, Timed, Tuned And Synced And Took Her For A Test Ride Last Night And Scared The Crap Out Of Myself... More Responsive Than Ever More Pull And A Longer Larger Top End, Can't Wait To Take It To The 1/4 Mile Drag Strip In The Spring And See Just How Good The Numbers Are... Went On A 150 Mile Ride Today Just To Break Her In And Road Test Her Before This Weekends Events... Awsome.... Still Smiling....
Thank You To All That Helped Out Here And To Frenchy And Susan For All The Parts And Tips...
This Now Brings An End To The Head Job.... Any Questions Just Ask....

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If You Didn't Build It, Customize It, And/Or Modify It, Then It Truly Isn't Yours. Rebel Rouser

COOL!!!

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Frenchy

I'm doing a head gasket replacement.
When I put the crank at Top dead center, one piston is all the way out and one is all the way in, but in the photos posted here, they are both recessed.
Do I need to rotate another 360 degrees?
How do you clean the piston ends?
Should I clean the cylinder walls?
Thanks!

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75 GL1000, love/hate relationship!

Todd; To clean or not to clean? If there is a lot of caked on carbon on top the pistons that might loosen and fall off when the engine is restarted,by all means clean it off. If there's only a light coating that is tight,it probably doesn't need to be removed. Removal by scraper or brush weilded very carefully to not damage pistons(aluminum) and walls (cast iron). Cylinder walls should only need to be wiped, maybe a little carb or brake cleaner. be sure to oil lightly before putting the heads back on. At TDC one piston will be full up and one full down,the picture with pistons half way indicated a 90 degree rotation to move both pistons down out of harm's way. When you go back together,go with the instructions as to positions of crank and cam and you should end up on #1 firing. After putting the belts on,turn the engine at least twice very carefully by hand just in case something didn't end up right! Hang in there and proceed with caution and it will come out right! Good Luck!
Ron

_________________
Proud member of the NGW Cartel
My album: http://www.ngwclub.com/gallery/album140
Jesus is Lord ! Hope is not a plan
84 Standard ongoing project
82 Interstate 35k
84 Ascot- Has gone to new home sans sidecar. New owner is a BSA nut and will take care of the Ascot even better than me! The sidecar now hangs on the 1200 for winter riding.