...attach right tension roller
(goes on like this)
and put on new belt
...check marks again
and re-re check crank marks
Now the new belts are on and tensioner roller bolts are not yet
Now for 'adjusting' the belt tension:
LEFT side: (right photo-side)
check what mother Honda says:
NOTE: the spring pressure automatically positions the tensioner
...so no 'extra' pressure' on the tensioner before tightening the
tensioner back plate bolts
..easy! But how about the RIGHT side with that cam pulley
being forced into a roll by the cam lobe.
Mothership Honda is not telling!
There's been much talk in the forum about how to get the
same tension on the right belt,
and now I've finally found the perfect procedure/explanation
in "Motorcycle Mechanics" magazine from February 1978
I that nerdy....or what?! ho ha
"To tension the right hand
..[snip]..the engine should be turned
through 360 degrees and the little arrows on the
cam-wheels should then face inwards
...this is by the way, with the engine once more
positioned at "T1".(*) You then do the same trick with
(and the spanner as per Honda
but now on the right side ) locking
it up after the spring has done its job
this might sound a bit confusing
it takes 2 revolutions of the crank shaft
for each revolution of the cam shaft.
Now: re-check everything..all marks
Turn the engine by hand a few times
This is an 'inteference-engine', meaning that if
the belt is few notches off; the valves will hit the top of the pistons!!!!!
You have probably been doing this with the engine cold.
The advise mentioned on Randakks site is to check
and re-adjust when the engine is warm, as it does
expand horizontally warming up.
Here's what Brian experienced:
....I took off the belt covers to examine
what I had done before. The engine was very warm
and the belts seemed very tight.
Too tight in my estimation and I had not applied
any more tension to the belts than the spring
provided on the roller, just like Octaine says.
Returning here for confirmation of procedures,
I came upon Randakks tip being referenced somewhere.
I then put a wrench on the bolts holding the tensioners,
one side at a time and watched carefully.
Each time I loosened one tensioner
(first the non spring end enough to allow the
plate to rotate and then the spring end)
I visibly saw the cam belt relax, just a bit.
The belt it still tight but it feels much better
than the "singing" tight it seemed before...
Do yourself (or future owners) a favor and mark down the
time and km/miles for the belt replacement
Check/re-adjust valve clearance
and check/re-adjust ignition timing
New belts CAN move the ignition timing a much as a few degrees according to Randakk.
Live happily ever after!
Roady/Steve has been kind enough to make
this thread into a Pdf, that you can download,
print out and bring with you to our workshop.
Download the PDF of "Octane's Timing Belts Procedure"
Thanks a lot Steve.