Jdept wrote:
Awesome job so far! So what make & color (#?) paint is that for the plastic side covers (The silver paint)? And I noticed that instead of taping the magnacharger to paint it red you could have painted it and while it was still wet take a rag dampened with thinner to remove the paint in the portions you didn't want to be painted. This would also give that magnacharger stamp a more contrasting look (so you could read it easier and from farther away). Another input, you could reposition that existing switch and then drop the multi-gauge you got there in front of the bars or on top of the bar bracket. Just throwing some more ideas your way. Really impressed with the talent and speed at which you're doing this. It's going to be a mean machine that's for sure. BTW have you looked into swapping out the old voltage regulator and resistor pack with a newer reg/rectifier people are using that come from Yahama R6 and R1s? FH0008 or FH0012, I think? It'll make your electrical system more efficient and you can drop two electronics for one. Also, how would the DMV prevent you from using the '77 engine?
Thanks for the input.Its good to get feedback!
You have to bear in mind that this is being done in the back of an RV (albeit a large one) so I don't have the painting choices open to most. It has to be done with rattle cans so that somewhat limiting! The silver is a Rustoleum product called titanium silver from their universal range. These come with a very good spray nozzle which covers like a real spray gun.
The technique you suggested for the supercharger I used on the badges for the valve covers and it worked well on them. The Chevy red-orange engine paint is not the easiest to work with on intricate stuff so went with the masking of the supercharger instead just in case I screwed up!
I am not 100% happy with the dash layout, but it will do for now. In the next re-do there are several thing I will do differently and a few things I will alter.
With regard to the regulator I won't need one. The Acewell instrument just requires the fuel gauge sender connecting and the temp sensor that comes with it installing (small engineering job there). All the voltage functions are there in the instrument.
The '77 engine frame. As a visitor here all my vehicles are tagged in Fl as it is the most convenient for us. The 77 bike I bought was without title and presumed out of the CA system. To transfer the title to a Fl tag I need a valid title from another state. On checking with the dmv here in Ca we found out it was still in the system and there were back dues on it. No fee no replacement title which the dmv person wasn't sure if we could get one anyway not being a Ca resident! Usual crap! While this was all going on I built the supercharger onto the '77 bike as seen in the video at the start of this thread. I decided to look for another bike and found a '76 with a frozen engine and a spare '78 engine, but it had paperwork which was good and is now tagged in Fl. Out of curiosity I decided to tear down the frozen motor and subsequently re-built it. I hadn't been inside one of these engines since 1977ish and I also thought that knowing what you have should be better than a potentially unknown motor especially with the supercharger addition. So there you have it. The '77 engine could have been installed in the '76 frame and the documents updated. The '77 could be re-built and tagged in Ca if you want to pay the fees. Bottom line I ended up with 3 non-frozen engines and enough parts to 95% build another bike. Maybe later!
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1975 GL1000 Sold!
1976 GL1000 "GL1's evil twin" Supercharged cafe racer. Build thread
HereNow in Florida working for a living Ugh!.....projects on hold mostly!
