CAFE MAXIMUS

[HOTT]

Nice work going on there Norbert,
Stay at it. I have to agree with Greg.
You will hate yourself if you button her up
and then have to go back in for that old water pump.

HOTT

[Easter]

Amen! (speaking from experience!)

[Norbert R]

Thanks for the advice on the water pump guys, will try source one.
Motor out, gave it a bath in the driveway. Is it just me, or does that look like a 1000cc wheelbarrow ?

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Armed with Octane’s How To for the clutch & Randakks tutorial on the starter clutch I’m ready to dive in.
Starter clutch seemed quite clean and not jammed up at all, but gave it a really good clean and made sure all the oil passages are spotless. I found some string made a handy device to keep the rollers in place while re-installing and are easy to pull back out.

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The oil filter had some very fine brass particles, the oil pick-up screen had one or two pieces, but when I stuck my finger into the crank case under the screen I must have scooped at least a teaspoon of brass shavings and chunks.
The clutch however looks perfect, so I think maybe a previous damper plate got fried, they replaced the clutch but didn’t clean up all the sheared up brass rivets ?
Clutch basket doesn’t have a mark on it, clutch plates are well within spec and look great to me, central damper plate rivets all look brand new (and it is the “double splined” version so not likely to shear the rivets), springs are also within spec.

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Octane said he struggled to re-install the clutch assembly as a whole – what I tried was to just turn these two bolts in a couple of threads, this then gave me two “handles” to grab onto and managed to slide the whole lot in no problem.

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I removed the clutch nut with a large flat screw driver and a hammer ( I know, not very professional) but once I had the nut off I could measure it up and laser cut this tool that I welded onto an old socket. Fitted perfectly onto my ½ inch torque wrench so at least I put it back on the right way!

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Because of all the bits of brass which I can only assume came from the clutch, I was worried about the oil scavenge pump. Removed it and all perfect inside. Only, the punch marks faced towards the inside of the motor but the manual says they need to face outwards. So I swapped them around, just hope I understood the manual correctly ? I also cut out the section of the gasket by the inlet which I think I also read on Octane’s page, just in case.

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Starter clutch, clutch and housings all put back, all new gaskets and oil seals so the arse end should now stay a lot cleaner than it was when I stripped the motor.

[Norbert R]

OK, just figured you can only load five pics at a time - here are the missing pics referred to above

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[Neil]

Nice

[Norbert R]

Time for the brakes. Can’t believe the PO used the bike with totally cracked up brake lines and mud for brake fluid..

Yum !.jpg

old brake lines.jpg

Use the compressed air method to remove the stuck pistons – worked like a charm but I sh*#$ myself when the first one shot out like a bullet !!
Gave everything a real good clean as per Octane’s guide, had the callipers glass bead blasted (I put them together and clamped some pieces of wood over the piston sleeves to make 100% sure absolutely no grit could get into the callipers)

Bead blasted calipers.jpg

Bead blasted calipers.jpg

They came out absolutely beautiful, actually look like they have been painted. The glass bead doesn’t take any material off or make the surface porous. Shot them with semi gloss Rust Oleum clearcoat to make cleaning easier.

[Neil]

Looks too familiar. Good job.

[Norbert R]

I put the front brake system together and filled and bled on the workbench. As I did this alone, it made the job a lot easier. Put some 8mm offcut laminate flooring between the pistons to keep them in position. I have never touched a brake system before, and am quite pleased with how it turned out. Brakes feel great front and back, happy days !

ready for rebuild.jpg

Bleeding on the bench.jpg

Rebuild front caliper.jpg

Rebuilt rear caliper.jpg

[gregforesi]

Spooge hole.
Don't do an internet or you'll learn more than you want to know. On both master cylinders the fluid return holes are about .013" and are refered to as the spooge holes. The one in the front MC is easy to see in the bottom of the reservoir. The rear is tough because it's on the side of the reservoir. A broken guitar string is the usual tool for reaming them out but any fine wire will work.
I see you're just about done but make sure they are clean or the brakes will drag big time.

[robin1731]

That fitting on the rear caliper may give you trouble. There is very little room between the caliper and the fuel tank. I don't think that will work without major metal movement on the tank.
Mine has a short 90 degree fitting coming out of the caliper. Then the line attaches to that. And I still had to massage tank a little.

[Norbert R]

Spooge hole.
Don't do an internet or you'll learn more than you want to know. On both master cylinders the fluid return holes are about .013" and are refered to as the spooge holes. The one in the front MC is easy to see in the bottom of the reservoir. The rear is tough because it's on the side of the reservoir. A broken guitar string is the usual tool for reaming them out but any fine wire will work.
I see you're just about done but make sure they are clean or the brakes will drag big time.

Thanks for the heads up Greg - they are very easy to miss !, but I did make sure they're clear, don't seam to have any dragging, but will keep an eye on that.

[Norbert R]

That fitting on the rear caliper may give you trouble. There is very little room between the caliper and the fuel tank. I don't think that will work without major metal movement on the tank.
Mine has a short 90 degree fitting coming out of the caliper. Then the line attaches to that. And I still had to massage tank a little.

Hi Robin, I just copied how the old lines ran but maybe they weren't stock ? Mine come straight out the caliper then run along the swingarm.

rear brake line from caliper.jpg

Then there is a rigid aluminium line that attaches sort of above the swing arm axle/pivot, makes a 90' turn and runs under the fuel tank to the rear MC.

Rear brake line detail.jpg

That is quite a tight fit but I lift and dropped the swing arm through it's entire range of motion with the tyre & shocks off and the brake line moves fine - does that sound OK ?

Also, I really dislike the huge tall reservoir on the front MC, to me it breaks the lines along the handlebars and sticks up like a sore thumb. so I swapped the front and rear reservoirs and am very happy with the result.
Only compromise is there's not enough room to remove the lid at the rear, so you have to remove the two bolts and drop the whole MC when filling. But that's a rare occurence and I will have to look at the front one all the time, so quite happy to live with that small issue.

swapped fron reservoir.jpg

swapped rear reservoir.jpg

[robin1731]

You are correct. I was thinking the fitting on the M/C. Sorry for the confusion.

[Norbert R]

Tx Robin. I'm just realy glad you're reading my thread - you have such a wealth of technical knowledge that you're very kind to share with the rest of us

[sunnbobb]

Nice idea swapping the front and rear reservoir. good job.