I replaced my front master cylinder with no bleeding necessary!
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I replaced my front master cylinder with no bleeding necessary!
Hi Fellas,
I ordered a smaller-bore front brake master to compliment my new stainless brake lines and improve my braking performance.
It's meant for a Kawasaki Z1. Out of respect for what Mr. Honda did with this masterpiece, I reused the Honda reservoir cap!
I had already replaced the lines, and I got such a solid, air-free bleed, I was wondering if I'd be able to replicate that when I replaced the master cylinder.
Then I had a brainstorm! I unbolted both front brake calipers and took them off the brake discs so I could squeeze the brake pads together and pump all my fluid down in to the calipers. Then I soaked up the remaining fluid in the reservoir, replaced the master cylinder and pressed apart the brake pads, pumping about half an inch of air-free fluid back up into the new empty master cylinder and reservoir!
It worked!
All I had to do was top off the brake reservoir, and I still had the super-firm brake feel I had before!
I'm a genius!
Well, I feel like one, anyway! I'm sure someone has thought of this before, but I've never heard of it.
I hope someone else can use it.
One caution, though, make sure the reservoir cap is on when you spread the pads apart. If not, even if you spread them slowly, the brake fluid will shoot to the garage ceiling!
Scott
I ordered a smaller-bore front brake master to compliment my new stainless brake lines and improve my braking performance.
It's meant for a Kawasaki Z1. Out of respect for what Mr. Honda did with this masterpiece, I reused the Honda reservoir cap!
I had already replaced the lines, and I got such a solid, air-free bleed, I was wondering if I'd be able to replicate that when I replaced the master cylinder.
Then I had a brainstorm! I unbolted both front brake calipers and took them off the brake discs so I could squeeze the brake pads together and pump all my fluid down in to the calipers. Then I soaked up the remaining fluid in the reservoir, replaced the master cylinder and pressed apart the brake pads, pumping about half an inch of air-free fluid back up into the new empty master cylinder and reservoir!
It worked!
All I had to do was top off the brake reservoir, and I still had the super-firm brake feel I had before!
I'm a genius!
Well, I feel like one, anyway! I'm sure someone has thought of this before, but I've never heard of it.
I hope someone else can use it.
One caution, though, make sure the reservoir cap is on when you spread the pads apart. If not, even if you spread them slowly, the brake fluid will shoot to the garage ceiling!
Scott
Last edited by BigSherm on Mon Feb 20, 2017 4:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: I replaced my front master cylinder with no bleeding necessary!
cool idea..
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1986 Yamaha FJ1200
2000 Yamaha Roadstar
1976 GoldWing. running but not on the road
1978 Goldwing. future cafe project.
2019 Can-Am ryker (boss's new ride)
2002 Shadow American Classic(sold)
1983 Shadow 500. (sold)
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Re: I replaced my front master cylinder with no bleeding necessary!
I'm assuming the M/C that your replacing is empty when you un-bolt the brake line from it ? Then you re-attach the brake line to the "New" empty M/C that is empty ?
Forcing the 2 Calipers with the brake pads touching to open again would force any trapped air that would enter the brake line at the M/C when it was removed ?
Forcing the 2 Calipers with the brake pads touching to open again would force any trapped air that would enter the brake line at the M/C when it was removed ?
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Re: I replaced my front master cylinder with no bleeding necessary!
Yep!
Much of the fluid was pumped down into the calipers when they were removed from the disks and then pumped closed.
I soaked up the rest out of the reservoir with a rag before removing the old master cylinder.
Then when I attached the new master cylinder and spread the pads apart, that returned much of the fluid to the new master cylinder. All I had to do was top it off and the lines were still air free!
Scott
Much of the fluid was pumped down into the calipers when they were removed from the disks and then pumped closed.
I soaked up the rest out of the reservoir with a rag before removing the old master cylinder.
Then when I attached the new master cylinder and spread the pads apart, that returned much of the fluid to the new master cylinder. All I had to do was top it off and the lines were still air free!
Scott
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Re: I replaced my front master cylinder with no bleeding necessary!
I did the same thing when I replaced my master cylinder with one from a cbr f4i. Worked great. Wish it was going to be that easy when I rebuild my calipers.
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- ericheath
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Re: I replaced my front master cylinder with no bleeding necessary!
Cool, thanks for the tip.
Whatever I suggest here should be given ample time for a moderator to delicately correct. I apologize in advance.
77 WING, 1200 engine with 77 heads, cams, gl1100 foot pegs, Magna V65 front end, 764A carbs, [-gone Suzuki M109 monoshock--, replaced with gl1100 shocks] gl 1200 swing arm, gl1500 final drive, wheel and rear brakes Valkyrie seat, Meanstreak tank, Sportster pipes, Power Arc ignition off crank.
77 Wing. black
83 Wing, in pieces
"Continuing education is important even if the subject matter is fairly useless (as in this case)."---Greg Foresi
77 WING, 1200 engine with 77 heads, cams, gl1100 foot pegs, Magna V65 front end, 764A carbs, [-gone Suzuki M109 monoshock--, replaced with gl1100 shocks] gl 1200 swing arm, gl1500 final drive, wheel and rear brakes Valkyrie seat, Meanstreak tank, Sportster pipes, Power Arc ignition off crank.
77 Wing. black
83 Wing, in pieces
"Continuing education is important even if the subject matter is fairly useless (as in this case)."---Greg Foresi
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Re: I replaced my front master cylinder with no bleeding necessary!
How difficult was it to spread the brake pads apart when you pumped the brake lever to where the pads were touching when the calipers were removed from the forks ? Weren't you afraid that pushing the pad out that far that the piston in the caliper would move past the seal in the caliper bore ?
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Re: I replaced my front master cylinder with no bleeding necessary!
With the pads in there it would be about impossible to push the piston out that far. They are pretty long.GLDCW wrote:How difficult was it to spread the brake pads apart when you pumped the brake lever to where the pads were touching when the calipers were removed from the forks ? Weren't you afraid that pushing the pad out that far that the piston in the caliper would move past the seal in the caliper bore ?
.
1976 Goldwing Super Sport
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1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
and a rotation of various purchases
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1985 Honda Elite
1976 KZ900 Dragbike
1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
and a rotation of various purchases
Randakk approved Carb Rebuilder
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Re: I replaced my front master cylinder with no bleeding necessary!
GLDCW-
I'm not sure how close I was to pushing the caliper pistons too far, but I had no problems after pushing them back in.
Just got a break in the storms of the century here in SoCal and took a short test ride.
The brakes feel great!
Scott
I'm not sure how close I was to pushing the caliper pistons too far, but I had no problems after pushing them back in.
Just got a break in the storms of the century here in SoCal and took a short test ride.
The brakes feel great!
Scott
Ride like you mean it.
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Re: I replaced my front master cylinder with no bleeding necessary!
BigSherm, Worked like a Charm Peformed procedure as outlined above and re-attached the brake line on New M/C. Brake pads were very easy to squeeze by hand back into calipers to provide enough gap to slide over brake rotors. Topped off M/C with brake fluid and pumped the brake lever several times to regain brake lever travel. Smaller bore M/C ( 5/8" ) feels so much better with less brake lever travel Look forward to riding the bike soon and see the difference in brake performance Thanks again for the TIP
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Re: I replaced my front master cylinder with no bleeding necessary!
You're welcome!
It worked so well, and saved so much hassle, I'm still surprised I've never heard of this before.
Scott
It worked so well, and saved so much hassle, I'm still surprised I've never heard of this before.
Scott
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- jdvorchak
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Re: I replaced my front master cylinder with no bleeding necessary!
I would be tempted to just put a big flat blade screwdriver, or any robust steel plate, between the pads and then pump it up. In my mind that would cause less marring to the pads when it's time to push them back into the calipers. I keep my old worn out pads and use them when I want to pry against a pad to compress the piston.
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John
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Don't fix it 'til it's broke...
The person with the most toys wins!
If it has wheels or a skirt you can't afford it.
Amateur Radio Station WW9L
71 CL350 with Bingham side car
2021 HD Triglide
2008 HD Dyna Low Rider
83 KZ1100L1 Son totaled it
83 KZ550LTD Shaft sold
Previous bikes: 84 GL1200 STD, 83 KZ550LTD, 83 CB1000, 78 CB400A, 82 CB900F, 79 CB750K, 2001 GL1800, 2000 Dyna Super Glide, 1972 CB350 K4, 1985 GL1200A, 1997 1200 Sportster, 84 GL1200I, 82 Honda CM400E, 81 Suzuki GS650L, 72 Triumph Bonneville 750, 72 Honda CB350, 66(?) Honda 305 Scrambler, 6? Yamaha yz250, 62 650 Matchless (Norton-Villers).
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Re: I replaced my front master cylinder with no bleeding necessary!
Great idea. Thanks for sharing!
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Re: I replaced my front master cylinder with no bleeding necessary!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/401043758059?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
This is the Link to the M/C that I used on my 75' Wing. Finish is real Nice and after installing, brake lever feels really good. Look forward riding it tomorrow
This is the Link to the M/C that I used on my 75' Wing. Finish is real Nice and after installing, brake lever feels really good. Look forward riding it tomorrow
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Re: I replaced my front master cylinder with no bleeding necessary!
I just received my SS 3-Line front brake line kit from Galfer. Very Nice Kit and extremely Fast delivery !
I'm wondering if removing the front calipers and squeezing the brake pads together would ease the installation of the new brake lines without dealing with the laborious bleeding method ?
If not, any other Tips ?
I'm wondering if removing the front calipers and squeezing the brake pads together would ease the installation of the new brake lines without dealing with the laborious bleeding method ?
If not, any other Tips ?
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