Quality clutch cable recommendations?

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propav8r
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Quality clutch cable recommendations?

#1

Post by propav8r »

So, after a mere 8 miles of riding, my (New, "Pro-Cable" brand) clutch cable has broken. The lever end pin just broke in half and the cable came out while I was adjusting the cable in the shop. Bummer.

The good news is I have the used cable that came off the bike originally. The bad news is that if I install that, I no longer have a spare.

Can someone recommend me a good quality, dependable clutch cable to fit my '78 GL1000?
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salukispeed
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Re: Quality clutch cable recommendations?

#2

Post by salukispeed »

I have had good luck with Motion Pro. I think They recommend yearly lubrication Which I seem to forget and so far so good anyway. Just asking but Is the mechanism free and adjusted and cable routed properly. If it binds you could create a failure as described.
Honda 72 CL100 sold
74 CB750 K4 nice driver
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jdvorchak
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Re: Quality clutch cable recommendations?

#3

Post by jdvorchak »

Motion pro and lube it before you install it then yearly afterwards.

I think the one you have was just defective.
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Previous bikes: 84 GL1200 STD, 83 KZ550LTD, 83 CB1000, 78 CB400A, 82 CB900F, 79 CB750K, 2001 GL1800, 2000 Dyna Super Glide, 1972 CB350 K4, 1985 GL1200A, 1997 1200 Sportster, 84 GL1200I, 82 Honda CM400E, 81 Suzuki GS650L, 72 Triumph Bonneville 750, 72 Honda CB350, 66(?) Honda 305 Scrambler, 6? Yamaha yz250, 62 650 Matchless (Norton-Villers).
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propav8r
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Re: Quality clutch cable recommendations?

#4

Post by propav8r »

Thanks guys, I'll give motion pro a go.

When it was working, the clutch was nice and smooth. I think I just got a defective cable.
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propav8r
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Re: Quality clutch cable recommendations?

#5

Post by propav8r »

I got my spare cable on today... For what it's worth, I noticed that the pin at the lever on the failed cable was only about 75% of the spare cable I had. The failed cable had a little plastic sleeve to take up the slack. I suspect the smaller pin just couldn't handle the force required by the clutch.
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Re: Quality clutch cable recommendations?

#6

Post by jdvorchak »

The plastic sleeve was there as a bushing to help it swivel when the lever was pulled.
New users please visit our "Shop Talk" for common tips and help:
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Don't fix it 'til it's broke...
The person with the most toys wins!
If it has wheels or a skirt you can't afford it.
Amateur Radio Station WW9L

71 CL350 with Bingham side car
2021 HD Triglide
2008 HD Dyna Low Rider
83 KZ1100L1 Son totaled it
83 KZ550LTD Shaft sold

Previous bikes: 84 GL1200 STD, 83 KZ550LTD, 83 CB1000, 78 CB400A, 82 CB900F, 79 CB750K, 2001 GL1800, 2000 Dyna Super Glide, 1972 CB350 K4, 1985 GL1200A, 1997 1200 Sportster, 84 GL1200I, 82 Honda CM400E, 81 Suzuki GS650L, 72 Triumph Bonneville 750, 72 Honda CB350, 66(?) Honda 305 Scrambler, 6? Yamaha yz250, 62 650 Matchless (Norton-Villers).
John
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ferndo
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Re: Quality clutch cable recommendations?

#7

Post by ferndo »

I use Motion Pro and it broke right at the barrel that goes into the clutch lever after roughly 12k mile of use. Same issue you had propav8r.
Cheers From Sunny SoCal,
Fern!

Current Lineup:
1975 GL1000
1976 GL1000
1982 GS1100G
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gltriker
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Re: Quality clutch cable recommendations?

#8

Post by gltriker »

ferndo wrote:I use Motion Pro and it broke right at the barrel that goes into the clutch lever after roughly 12k mile of use. Same issue you had propav8r.
My '75 GL displayed 7,831 miles on the odometer when I bought it. After pulling the clutch lever into disengagement, less than 10 times, the clutch cable broke in the same location; "right at the barrel."
I replaced the Honda clutch cable assembly with a Motion Pro unit, too.
That replacement cable eventually broke after riding approximately 15,000 miles. This second failure was right at the barrel, too.

Subsequently, after really looking at the identical manufacturer brake and clutch levers, I wondered if they actually were stock Honda levers and posted a photo of the clutch lever in the forum for verification of identity. They apparently aren't OEM, afterall. ( I believe Magura was the name of the manufacturer on both levers.)

After processing that information, it became apparent to me that after fully disengaging the clutch, the aftermarket clutch lever was still quite a distance away from the handgrip. Because of the lever's extra range of pivoting motion remaining beyond complete clutch disengagement, that causes the cable's barrel fitting to needlessly attempt to swivel even further than necessary in its mounting socket in the clutch lever.

Now, In light of that discovery, I typically place my index finger between the clutch lever and the handgrip to consciously prevent my oversqueezing the lever to prevent the same type of clutch cable failure again.

Perhaps, you may have a similar situation where the cable and its barrel fitting are going into a bind in the lever's barrel swivel socket and alternately flexing back and forth to cause the individual wire strands to break where they enter the swiveling barrel cable end, quite similar to both clutch cable failures I've observed on my bike.
Cliff (74yrs ;) )

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Cliff

'75 GL1000 home built trike; http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=39996
October,2017 BOTM :shock: https://nakedgoldwingsclub.com/forum/page/Welcome

previous rides:
1953 H-D Servi-car, naked, 1969-1978 (serial#53G1559 committed to memory!)
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ferndo
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Re: Quality clutch cable recommendations?

#9

Post by ferndo »

gltriker, thanks! that makes sense, I just ordered the oem clutch handle lever, and will post pics of the difference.

Two days ago my clutch failed completely, I pulled the clutch lever and was stuck in the disengaged position. Luckily was a mile away from home and there was still enough friction to move the bike at walking pace so drove it back home slowly. Last night pulled the engine out and will be replacing all the friction plates as well as bunch of oil seal and gaskets while I have the engine out.

I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary majority of the friction plate where right around 3.44mm thickness so still within the 3.2 service limit but enough for me to changed them since they are out. I had the lifter screw adjusted to the 3/4 turn spec. And the free play on the lever set correctly. But read somewhere that if the free play is too tight could cause premature wear on the clutch.

One thing that was concerning was this last year of riding I noticed that when the clutch is pulled in all the way there was a clicking/clacking noise coming out of the gear box which seem to not completely disengage the engine from the drive, not enough to move the bike forward but you can feel the resistance when you tried walking the bike back. Anyway I messed around with the freeplay an noticed when I had it with less play the issue was mitigated. But could this be cause by warp plates or again maybe this lever cause more problems?
Cheers From Sunny SoCal,
Fern!

Current Lineup:
1975 GL1000
1976 GL1000
1982 GS1100G
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CYBORG
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Re: Quality clutch cable recommendations?

#10

Post by CYBORG »

ferndo wrote:gltriker, thanks! that makes sense, I just ordered the oem clutch handle lever, and will post pics of the difference.

Two days ago my clutch failed completely, I pulled the clutch lever and was stuck in the disengaged position. Luckily was a mile away from home and there was still enough friction to move the bike at walking pace so drove it back home slowly. Last night pulled the engine out and will be replacing all the friction plates as well as bunch of oil seal and gaskets while I have the engine out.

I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary majority of the friction plate where right around 3.44mm thickness so still within the 3.2 service limit but enough for me to changed them since they are out. I had the lifter screw adjusted to the 3/4 turn spec. And the free play on the lever set correctly. But read somewhere that if the free play is too tight could cause premature wear on the clutch.

One thing that was concerning was this last year of riding I noticed that when the clutch is pulled in all the way there was a clicking/clacking noise coming out of the gear box which seem to not completely disengage the engine from the drive, not enough to move the bike forward but you can feel the resistance when you tried walking the bike back. Anyway I messed around with the freeplay an noticed when I had it with less play the issue was mitigated. But could this be cause by warp plates or again maybe this lever cause more problems?
You might consider doing a hydraulic conversion
1978 custom GL1000
1977 custom with 1200 engine
1985 gl1200
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