Adapting GL1500 coils to use on the GL1000

[Lucien Harpress]

Of the top of anyone's head, do you know how long the spark plug wires are on a GL1000? I'm replacing my coils with those from a GL1500, which have separate wires. I'm going to order some wire for it (because nobody around me stocks it by the foot), and while a little extra is always good, I also don't want to order twice as much as I actually need, like I did with my KZ1300. Thanks!

[todd54219]

Without pulling them off my 76, I would say 24" will be tight. I would order 30" just to be safe.

Todd

[mrtwowheel]

I have the stock coils right here with the stock wires on them. Approximately 19" for each wire. A good starting point would be to attach 2' of wire to each coil connection, and then trim off the excess from each wire when installing the caps. So, 7' would be a real close fit, and 8' would be more convenient with a little more room for a good custom fit.

Scott

[Lucien Harpress]

As much as I would love to run 2 feet and not have much extra, 3 feet for each would be nice and comfortable. At less than a dollar a foot (from O-Riley's, anyway), I'm not out much. I was in between 3 and 4 feet for each, so 12' total should do fine.

Thanks!

[calif wingnut]

Why are you replacing the 1500 plug wire when all you need to do is cut it back to match 1000 ?

[mrtwowheel]

Tell us how you mount the coils. I've upgraded other bikes with those coils but not the GL1000. I am working on it, but I almost have a bare frame and am not sure about the clearance with other parts. The object should be to point the wire end of coils downward and reuse the mounting brackets. I see how the coils are a little too wide at the SP wire end when mounted side by side, but they can be splayed out a bit on the SP wire end to solve that. The original mounts, maybe, should be reused because they work as a heat sink to draw heat away from the coils. Adding a beefy bracket from coil to mount on the downside would also help with the coil heat. I've put these things together about 6 different ways now. That's the fun of it, getting the job done and not wishing I'd have done it differently.

Scott

[Lucien Harpress]

Why are you replacing the 1500 plug wire when all you need to do is cut it back to match 1000 ?

Because wire's cheap and I see no reason not to.

As for mounting them- I've got an idea or two. The upper mount will probably be re-used, but a newer lower mount will have to be drilled, probably.

I got to looking, and while the right side is a bit tight due to the airbox snorkel, there is loads of room on the left. Good thing, because that's probably when I'm going to run the ballast resistor. The only thing that concerns me at the moment is how close the coils are to each other (the fault of my mounting brackets) and if my setup will actually FIT- hard to tell, until the oil coils come out and I can test-fit the new ones for sure.



My sight-unseen prototype.



And here's how I'm hoping it will fit. Because the plug wires go downward, this entire diagram is viewed from below. I'm not overly concerned with width, because we're pretty good there. Vertical space is okay, too- the 1500 bodies are shorter than those on a 1000, but the screw-on wire nuts make it so overall length is nearly identical. Snorkel clearance is going to be tight, but I may be able to get away without trimming it.

The resistor side is going to be fine- there's so much free space it's a crime. In fact, if I don't care how they look AT ALL, I could probably hang both off the top frame tube, stacked on top of each other, and they would fit just fine. I'm trying to be as least invasive as possible, though. But you know what they say about the best laid plans.....

[mrtwowheel]

I'm working on it too, see what you mean about the snorkel. I have a preliminary setup and am working on getting some pictures up with the stock brackets. Charging dead batteries now.

Scott

[mrtwowheel]

103.JPG

This is the stock coils and resistor mounted to the brackets.

106.JPG

This is the new coils mounted on the other side of the stock mount. The resistor is now mounted on the front of the stock mounts. The red pointer points to where I will use the mending plates. I will cut and drill and stack the mending plates to connect the coils to the stock mount.

107.JPG

Another view

108.JPG

[mrtwowheel]

109.JPG

This is the frame side of the coils and stock mounts. See how the mounts are still offset where they connect to the frame, just like they were before. I like this. The fabricated brackets will allow the coils to sit at a slight angle to give some space at the SP wire connections. The resistor has plenty of room, the coils sit back about the same distance as the resistor did before, there is enough room for the sparkplug wires to make their turn. If there is a clearance problem it will be at the snorkel. I could dent, cut or reshape that snorkel.

I'll have some pictures of the fabbed brackets tomorrow.

Scott

[calif wingnut]

1500 coil conversion on a 1200.

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-g ... spark.html

[mrtwowheel]

Here's where I'm at now.

026.JPG

Mending plates are cut and drilled and connecting the coils to the stock mount.

027.JPG

028.JPG

Some wiring notes.

029.JPG

Plenty of room for the wire connections.

030.JPG

The mending plate holes are drilled 23mm apart center to center. The angle is to keep the spark plug wire connections apart from each other, I could change wires with everything mounted. The more metal that there is between the coil and mount, the better the heat sink will be to help cool the core of the coil. I bolted the floppy thing to the frame and tightened everything up, now it's one solid unit. I have a bare framed bike now, clearance problem may be at that snorkel, look out snorkel.

Scott

[Lucien Harpress]

I'm liking it so far. Not sure exactly how I'm mounting mine to the frame yet. Was prepared to use a couple angle brackets, but it'd be nice to be able to re-use the original mounts. I managed to find spark plug wires for mine (along with a small motorcycle shop in Toledo, OH), but this weather has made it difficult to do much experimenting.

[mrtwowheel]

Lucien, we must be neighbors. Check out Cycleman in Toledo for used parts. Guys name is Pat, his wife works the counter. Pat won't sell you a part unless you can convince him that you need it, I've won the argument every time. Don't go beyond that argument though, I've seen him bloody up the help before, and he's built like an oak tree. They mostly deal in imports and Pat really knows his stuff. If he's got a soft spot for the bike you're working on (some Hondas), you can really get a good deal on parts.

Scott

[rcmatt007]

I would agree, if I had it all apart like that, why not also put in new wires, then you know they are new!