So, finally got a night of knuckle busting in and picked up a compression checker and got the following:
Double checked them all, because I had never done it before, and it was the same.
#2 is higher than the rest, and is even pushing a little above 150, almost 155. Now that I have it all put back together, I wonder if it was higher because it was on the side stand after the last frustrating test ride (I usually burn a bit of oil on the left when its on the side stand at start up)
The test was done with a cold motor (something I read on here about doing it cold so I don't burn my fingers off, or strip out the threads if its in between)
Checked the timing and things were a little bit off (seems like the plate twisted a tiny bit) and reset it, and the yellow wire was spot on after the tiny twist of the plate.
While wearing out the search button on this forum I remember reading somewhere about switching the right and left side plug wires to rule out an electronics issue, and figured why not. Flipped them and didn't make a difference.
If I pull the plug wire on #1 the issue/sound stops. I pulled my plugs, but its hard telling because I had replaced my plugs a few weeks back, but that was before my coils went belly up, on a 30 mile ride home, so I am not sure what is from what. All the plugs have black deposits. I may just pick up another set of plugs so I can diagnose, if need be. Seems a shame since these were nearly brand new.
It seems like the backfiring is getting worse, though maybe I can just notice it more since there is no muffler on that side, and can actually see the blue flames.
I don't have the knowledge to interpret the compression readings, but have read within 10-15% was fine. and the #1 (the problem child) is right there with 3&4.
Does this lead me back to the carbs? I feel like I was as thorough and meticulous as I could be in getting them cleaned out. I didn't replace the float valve/seat but did clean the screens (they were horribly, terribly gummed up)
If I am going to pull them and crack them open would I be best served to just replace the #1 seat/valve? $20 isn't much for peace of mind if that could be the problem. I don't particularly want to have to remove the carbs and do anything because I was too cheap this time.
Also, a problem that I noticed creeping up is the idle is rather slow to come back down.
I checked that the marks on the pulleys and the case line up, and with the timing mark, if that is what you mean? haha
Seems like everything I type gets longer, but I'll spare you the video this time
Thanks again guys.