Yea that still does not sound good. A Compression check is a good idea also check your plugs to see if there is any variance in color to see if it will give you an idea what jug is acting up.

If you have not yet I would pull the belt covers and do a physical inspection of the belts for proper alignment.

_________________
"I prefer the abstract concept of incoherence in the face of great feeling to beautiful, full sentences that convey little emotion." DDL
1978/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

So, finally got a night of knuckle busting in and picked up a compression checker and got the following:

#1-130
#2-150
#3-135
#4-135

Double checked them all, because I had never done it before, and it was the same.

#2 is higher than the rest, and is even pushing a little above 150, almost 155. Now that I have it all put back together, I wonder if it was higher because it was on the side stand after the last frustrating test ride (I usually burn a bit of oil on the left when its on the side stand at start up)

The test was done with a cold motor (something I read on here about doing it cold so I don't burn my fingers off, or strip out the threads if its in between)

Checked the timing and things were a little bit off (seems like the plate twisted a tiny bit) and reset it, and the yellow wire was spot on after the tiny twist of the plate.

While wearing out the search button on this forum I remember reading somewhere about switching the right and left side plug wires to rule out an electronics issue, and figured why not. Flipped them and didn't make a difference.

If I pull the plug wire on #1 the issue/sound stops. I pulled my plugs, but its hard telling because I had replaced my plugs a few weeks back, but that was before my coils went belly up, on a 30 mile ride home, so I am not sure what is from what. All the plugs have black deposits. I may just pick up another set of plugs so I can diagnose, if need be. Seems a shame since these were nearly brand new.

It seems like the backfiring is getting worse, though maybe I can just notice it more since there is no muffler on that side, and can actually see the blue flames.

I don't have the knowledge to interpret the compression readings, but have read within 10-15% was fine. and the #1 (the problem child) is right there with 3&4.

Does this lead me back to the carbs? I feel like I was as thorough and meticulous as I could be in getting them cleaned out. I didn't replace the float valve/seat but did clean the screens (they were horribly, terribly gummed up)

If I am going to pull them and crack them open would I be best served to just replace the #1 seat/valve? $20 isn't much for peace of mind if that could be the problem. I don't particularly want to have to remove the carbs and do anything because I was too cheap this time.

Also, a problem that I noticed creeping up is the idle is rather slow to come back down.

I checked that the marks on the pulleys and the case line up, and with the timing mark, if that is what you mean? haha

Seems like everything I type gets longer, but I'll spare you the video this time

Thanks again guys.

_________________
'76 GL1000 - GunSlinger

Assuming your throttle cables are in good shape and the throttle snaps back when released then the usual cause of a "slow to return to idle speed" is a vacuum leak. Most likely place is around the rubber intake runners. A vacuum leak can contribute to an intermittent backfire but unlikely. See if you can get the vacuum leak sorted out then see if it still backfires. Your particular backfire is caused by unburned gas in the exhaust. Now how is the unburned gas getting into the exhaust? I'm thinking that you have a spark plug wire or cap that is cracked and intermittently arcing to ground instead of firing that spark plug. Check it out at idle with the lights off and see if you can see arcing around the frame near the coil and spark plug hole in and around the head.

_________________
The person with the most toys wins!
If it has wheels or a skirt you can't afford it.
Amateur Radio Station WW9L

2001 GL1800
1984 GL1200 STD
2000 HD Dyna Super Glide Sport FXDX
1972 CB350 K4
Previous bikes:1985 GL1200A, 1997 1200 Sportster, 84 GL1200I, 82 Honda CM400E, 81 Suzuki GS650L, 72 Triumph Bonneville 750, 72 Honda CB350, 66(?) Honda 305 Scrambler, 6? Yamaha yz250, 62 750 Matchless (Norton-Villers).
John

My other 2 Goldwings.... Yeah it's MBS..

Those numbers are not great but they are good enough that I believe they are not your problem. Are you seeing any fuel on the floor of the plenum??

_________________
"I prefer the abstract concept of incoherence in the face of great feeling to beautiful, full sentences that convey little emotion." DDL
1978/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

I did not see if you have synched the carbs?

_________________
Timothy Mark Fisher
Catalina Arizona

"I like a cold beer with my beer"
(OldWing)
"Most of us like the sport of wrenching too."
(fred camper)

I was reading through other posts, and realized that I am a dummy, and didn't have the throttle open when doing compression checks...

The REAL numbers are

1-155
2-150
3-150
4-145

Interesting to me that all the numbers went up when the throttle was open except #2 (Which was high before). I don't have any idea if that means anything, just interesting.

No gas is pooled in the plenum, but I remember seeing some at one point, but that may have been before I went through the carbs. I will keep an eye on it, and hopefully will be test riding on Monday. Race day is here in Indy tomorrow, so I'll be a little busy!

The caps are brand new NGK that Randakk suggests (There is a shop in town that sells them for like 3 bucks). The wires/coils were replaced and the problem existed before and after replacing the coils. I will still check in the dark to see if I see anything. Its easy enough.

I cleaned my plugs up a bit (they are only a few weeks old, but went through a failing set of coils) and I am going to put them back in to see if I can tell whats happening where from them.

I guess step next for me is to re-pull the carbs, and re-clean them. Focusing on #1 as its the problem child.

I did sync them recently (earlier in this post) but I will re-sync after I have the carbs off.

Throttle comes back, but isn't as snappy as it used to be. I could have mis-routed the throttle cable this time (which is when the slow idle return really became bad).

I read a thread (forgive me but I can't remember the author) that said he switched brass in his carbs between one side and the other. I may just give that a try if I already have them apart. And I'll pull the carb halves apart to check the big gasket.

Wish me luck! Its a hot one outside today.

_________________
'76 GL1000 - GunSlinger

We made some progress, though not quite as much as I would have liked.

I pulled the carbs and low and behold my BRAND NEW intake O-ring on #1 was MISSING!

I had pulled the intakes before to make sure that there wasn't a gasket sitting oddly, or hanging off, and when I didn't see it wrong, I assumed it was right, or there for that matter.

Compounding that, I opened up the carbs (I had them off anywho) and rechecked my float heights and on #1 (the problem child) It was more like 19.5 instead of 21 on one side and 20.5 on the other and was inconsistant all the way around. I.e. twisted around a bit. I think I got it all square and straigtened out. I checked before, but was using a ruler to measure, not the slide ruler (A worthwhile $2)

AND the clamp that holds my vacuum line onto the bottom of carb #1 to the cutoff valve, and it had slid off.

I had things apart and back together so many times who knows when this happened.

So apparently my #1 was doomed from the start.

I also switched the brass around, even though it seemed to be in great shape and spotless, just to see if my float valve on #1 wasn't sealing 100%, though it did seem to work fine when I hilbilly tested it.

Also, when I pulled my float valve seats, there was a little crud on the screens. I replaced the filter with an aftermarket one I bought at the local shop, but it apparently doesn't work at all. My tank isn't awesome, but I didn't think it was that bad (in much better shape than my old 550) so now I'm going to be cleaning that out before I test the fruits of what all I have done. I was hoping it wasn't bad enough to need it, but obviously it is. Afterall I have put a TON of time into cleaning out the carbs, its seems silly to gum them right back up again.

So to the guy having problems with his carbs, or thinking of re-doing them. Don't be a turd, and DO learn from my mistakes. Slow down and take your time, and don't be cheap!!! Saving a few bucks isn't worth having to do everything over again.

I don't know if my problems are solved, but I know I am at least a step closer

I ordered a filter, and am off to track down supplies to clean my tank.

Wish me luck

_________________
'76 GL1000 - GunSlinger

The saga continues. I took a break from messing with this sound to try whip some bags onto the bike. Got it all back together, changed the exhaust around a bit, and IT GOT WORSE!!!

The backfiring problem is done and taken care of all that is left is that ticking sound. The sound was there with just the headers and no exhaust.

I ran the bike with the #1 plug pulled and the sound stopped. I (bravely) moved the plug wire close to the spark plug and the sound happens every time the jug gets spark. Pull the wire away, the sound stops. Get it close enough to get spark it sounds again. I plan to do a leak down test, even though compression was good.

I am not sure what else to do, and I am REALLY burning through a perfect (dry) riding season.

I will take a video once I get the chance, but I have a busy few days ahead of me and was REALLY looking forward to a nice Sunday Ride... maybe next week

_________________
'76 GL1000 - GunSlinger

Also with the mark aligned to "T-1" blowing air into the #1 jug doesn't make any exhaust hissing sound, or obvious intake sounds, though I didn't remove the air filter or whip up the screw in type for a leak down test, just a rubber press against the threads.

I almost felt like I would hear an exhaust hiss, as I really felt like it was an exhaust valve problem.

This is really driving me nuts, any one have any other suggestions or ideas?

_________________
'76 GL1000 - GunSlinger

ALSO! as I mentioned before I switched the brass around from carb #1 to #2, and the problem stayed with #2.

Is there anything other than the brass I should focus on if I pull the carb rack again? I really feel like I cleaned the passages, but at this point it couldn't hurt to give some of it a second go? Its not a sometimes sound, its every single time the jug fires it makes the sound. The faster the revs the faster the sound.

_________________
'76 GL1000 - GunSlinger

Exhaust leak? Trying tightening up the header bolts. I didn't go back through your whole thread so if you already did this just ignore it. But that is almost what it sounds like right now.

_________________
1976 Goldwing Super Sport
1982 GL1100 Standard Bagger (in progress)
1985 Honda Elite
1976 KZ900 Dragbike
1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
and a rotation of various purchases

I'll be sure to do that, thank you. I think I'll condense this all into a post to make it easier on you guys trying to help.

It's gettingng there, but fighting every step of the way:)

_________________
'76 GL1000 - GunSlinger